A Line Cape – Design Your Own

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  Step 1

  Note the measurements of your chest, waist, shoulder to bust, shoulder to waist, bicep and the length of the cape. My brown kalidar has a yoke of 16.5″ so I kept the length of the cape 1″ extra , i.e.17.5″. You will require your main garment, in my case the kalidar, during pattern making to mark the neckline and shoulder. If you cannot use the main garment for these two markings you could use any garment that provides the two shapes.

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  Step 2

  Make the pattern. Using one edge of the chart paper place your main garment’s vertical mid-line and trace the front neckline, back neckline and the shoulder. From the point where the neckline meets the shoulder draw a thin line down. Put a mark at 8″, at shoulder to apex (usually around 10″) , at shoulder to waist (usually around 17.5″) and at shoulder to total length of the cape on the vertical line. In the picture above I have marked uptill above hip to show the shape of the cape if it was longer.

  Next horizontally mark 1/4th of the chest measurement from the edge over the shoulder-to-apex point. Horizontally mark 1/4th of the waist measurement from the edge over the shoulder-to-waist point. Add 2″ at the chest mark and 5″ at the waist mark. If you have thick arms you could add more at the chest mark. Draw a line connecting these two extended points. Mark on this line horizontally from the 8″ vertical line mark.

  Then shape out you cape slope from the shoulder-armhole point to the 8″ horizontal mark. Do this free hand according to the picture above. You can always adjust this on the muslin sample.

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  Step 3

  Trace the pattern onto the muslin fabric for a test-fit. Keeping the grain of the fabric straight place the pattern and draw the half back, then invert the pattern and keeping the straight edge lines aligned draw the other half in continuation. Next draw one half for the front keeping a minimum of 1/2″ distance all around from any other pattern marks. Invert the pattern and draw the other half. Using a tracing wheel mark the front neckline (this is the lower of the two neckline marks) on both muslin pieces.

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  Step 4

  Using a measuring tape mark 1/2″ marks all around on the traced pattern, this is your seam allowance (extra fabric for inside of the stitch). Cut all around. If you are not lining your cape you could cut the neckline and hem, at the desired length, without the 1/2″ allowance.

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  Step 5

  Pin along the side till the neckline making sure both pattern pieces are aligned at the traced line. Next stitch along the pinned seams/lines. We use a contrast thread so it’s easier to manipulate in the next stage if required.

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  Step 6

  This is how your finished muslin cape will look on the inside. Try it on and check the fittings. Based on your design pin the front accordingly. If your final cape design is going to be with a single button- pin only at the top and if it is going to be full closed- pin all through the front. Check for the shoulder slope shape, the ease to move your hands and the fall of the hem shape. Keep in mind your final fabric might result in slight fitting differences. Manipulate on the muslin itself till you are happy with the result.

  The shoulder in my test-fit was standing so I went in and stitched the slope a pinch more inwards. The side with the bare hand is how it was and the side with the camera in my hand is after the alteration.

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  Step 7

  As explained in steps 3 and 4, trace the pattern with any alterations that you might have made onto the final fabric. My fabric was quiet thick and prone to fraying so instead of 1/2″ seam allowance all over- I marked 3/4 ” seam allowance. Next stitch the sides of the fabric as explained in step 5.

  In my final design I wanted curved edges at the neckline, center front and hem following the circles of the fabric. Also, I planned on using hooks for the center front closure, so added one inch extra on both front panels. I kept this in mind while cutting and made sure not to cut out any circle midway along the pattern lines. If needed keep a little extra fabric at the edges.

  Read more: http://akioneam.com/a-line-cape-design

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  Step 8

  The front with the overlapping circles uneven edge. The back with the slightly higher back center.

  The neckline with circular edge and zig-zag finishing. The front with it’s uneven edge, like the hem, is in sync with the rest of the design when left open.

  Even thought the post seems long it took me only 3.5 hours to make the pattern and stitch the cape with final finishing. I finally had a product costing me just for the fabric and three and a half hours of my time.

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