Streetwise Cool Cardigan

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• Step 1

  TO MAKE
  Pockets | Start by knitting the pockets. They will be worked into the fronts of the cardigan later. Cast on 17 stitches in oatmeal and work 13cm (51⁄4in) in stocking stitch. When the pocket measures 13cm (51⁄4in), cast off the rst two and last two stitches of the last right-side row. Slip the remaining 13 stitches onto a holder.
  Make the second pocket in the same way.

• Step 2

  Back and front | The cardigan is knitted in one piece in rows as far as the armholes. With 7mm circular needle and dark grey marl, cast on 99 (111:123) stitches and work in knit 1 purl 1 rib. Start with a wrong-side row and purl 2 stitches, then knit 1 purl 1 alternately and end with purl 2.

  In the following rows work the stitches as
  they appear.
  Work 8cm (31⁄4in) in rib.
  Then change to curry marl and work 15cm (6in) in stocking stitch. Increase 1 stitch in the rst stocking stitch row by knitting front and back into the 24th (27th:30th) stitch.
  Divide the stitches as follows: 24 (27:30) stitches for the right front, 52 (58:64) stitches for the back and 24 (27:30) stitches for the left front. Mark the imaginary side seams with stitch markers or safety pins.
  Note: The ribbed front border of the cardigan will be knitted on later and is 4cm (11⁄2in) wide. (This is why the fronts added together have fewer stitches than the back.)

• Step 3

  Pockets | When work measures 23cm (9in), change to dark grey marl and in the rst dark grey row knit in the pockets as follows:
  Knit 5 (6:7) stitches, slip the next 13 stitches onto a holder and knit the 13 stitches of the pocket from the holder, then knit the remaining 6 (8:10) stitches of the right front, the 52 (58:64) stitches of the back and 6 (8:10) stitches of the left front, slip the next 13 stitches onto a holder and knit the 13 stitches of the second pocket from their holder and nish the row by knitting the remaining 5 (6:7) stitches of the left front.
  The pocket borders will later be knitted on the stitches from the holders.
  Continue in stocking stitch, changing between oatmeal and dark grey every 8cm (31⁄4in).

• Step 4

  Decrease for the waist at both sides | The cardigan is slightly waisted. Decreases for this are worked at both sides.
  When work measures 45 (43:41)cm (173⁄4(17:161⁄4in), knit together the third-last and second-last stitches of the right front (i.e. the 22nd and 23rd stitches for size S, the 25th and 26th stitches for size M and the 28th and 29th stitches for size L), the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the back, the third-last and second-last stitches of the back and the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the left front. 4 stitches are decreased in each decrease row.
  Repeat the decreases twice more on every 8th row (88 (100:112)) stitches.
  Work 7 rows and then start increasing again by knitting in the front and back of the 2nd stitch before and the 2nd stitch after the side seams. Repeat the increases twice more in every 8th row, until there are once again 100 (112:124) stitches on the needle.

• Step 5

  Front neck slope | When work measures 63cm (243⁄4in), begin decreasing for the neck slope on both fronts and continue until only the 12 (14:16) stitches for the shoulders remain.
  On the right front, decrease by working the third and fourth stitches as slip 1 knit 1 pass slipped stitch over, and on the left front by knitting together the fourth-last and third-last stitches. For size S: Decrease on every 3rd right-side row. For sizes M and L: Decrease in every 2nd and 3rd right-side row alternately.
  Do not forget to start working the armholes when the work reaches 75 (73:71)cm (291⁄2(283⁄4:28)in) in length.

• Step 6

  Divide for fronts and back | When work measures 75 (73:71)cm (291⁄2(283⁄4:28)in), begin casting off for the armholes and nish the back and fronts separately. Continue decreasing at the front neck edge as described on page 42. The centre 52 (58:64) stitches form the back, and the remaining stitches make up the right and left fronts. The number of stitches for the fronts may vary, depending on how many decreases have been worked.

• Step 7

  Back armhole | Finish the back rst. At the beginning of the next 6 rows, cast off 2 stitches four times and 1 stitch twice (42 (48:54) stitches remain). Continue working in stripe sequence.

• Step 8

  Back neck | When work measures 94cm (37in), cast off the centre 18 (20:22) stitches. On each
  side work 2 rows stocking stitch then slip the remaining 12 (14:16) stitches onto holders.

• Step 9

  Front armholes | Work the armhole decreases as for the back, while continuing to decrease at the neck edge as before.
  When work measures 95cm (371⁄2in), slip the remaining 12 (14:16) stitches onto holders for the shoulders. They will later be knitted together with the shoulder stitches of the back.

• Step 10

  Join the shoulder seams | Turn the cardigan to the wrong side and knit the shoulder stitches together by knitting 1 stitch of the back together with 1 stitch of the front each time. In the next row, cast off all stitches. Join the second shoulder in the same way.

• Step 11

  Pockets | With dark grey yarn, pick up and knit the 13 stitches for the pocket border from the holder. Work 4cm (15⁄8in) in rib. Then cast off all stitches. Sew the side edges invisibly to the fronts. On the wrong side, sew the pockets to the fronts with whip stitch, so that the seam does not show on the right side of the garment.

• Step 12

  Buttonhole and button band | With dark grey marl yarn, pick up stitches evenly along the front edges and back neck. Work 2cm (3⁄4in) in rib, beginning and ending at the hem edges with
  purl 1. On the next right-side row, 17cm (63⁄4in) from the hem of the right front, cast off 2 stitches for the rst buttonhole. Make 3 more buttonholes in the same way, with 15cm (6in) between them. In the following wrong-side row, cast on 2 stitches over each buttonhole. When the band
  is 4cm (15⁄8in) wide, cast off all stitches.

• Step 13

  Sleeves | The sleeves are knitted in rounds on double-pointed needles, and have no seam. With dark grey marl and a set of 7mm double- pointed needles, cast on 24 (26:28) stitches and distribute the stitches evenly. Mark the imaginary seam.
  Work 6cm (23⁄8in) in knit 1 purl 1 rib.
  Change to stocking stitch and work 12cm (43⁄4in) in curry marl.

  Then continue in alternate 8cm (31⁄4in) stripes
  of oatmeal and dark grey.
  Increase a total of 12 (14:16) stitches by knitting into the strand between the second and third stitches and between the third-last and second- last stitches of the round: for size S, in every 10th round 6 times; for size M, in every 8th round 7 times; for size L, in every 7th round 8 times; (36 (40:44) stitches on needles).

• Step 14

  Sleeve top | When sleeve measures 50cm (191⁄2in), change to working in rows, at rst with two or three needles from the set. Later, one needle will be enough.
  Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next
  4 rows and 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 2 rows (26 (30:34) stitches remain). Cast off 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times (20 (24:28) stitches remain).
  When sleeve top measures 11 (13:15)cm
  (43⁄8 (5:6)in) from the start of the decreases, cast off at each side as follows:
  For size S: for two rows each in the following sequence: cast off 1–1–2–3 stitches (14 stitches in total). Cast off the remaining 6 stitches in the next right-side row.
  For size M: for two rows each in the following sequence: cast off 1–2–3–3 stitches (18 stitches in total). Cast off the remaining 6 stitches.
  For size L: for two rows each in the following sequence: cast off 2–2–3–4 (22 stitches in total). Cast off the remaining 6 stitches.

• Step 15

  Finishing | Sew in the sleeves. Darn in all the ends.

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