Scalloped Hem

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  Step 1

  Lengthen your pattern’s hem. You need to extend the hem by taping paper to the pattern. For this hem, I added 1 1/4″.

  Calculate the width of each scallop. Start by measuring the total length of the hem. For this shirt there will be 11 scallops. So divide the total length of the hem by the number of scallops. In this case it is 42″ divided by 11 equals approximately 3 7/8″. Each scallop will be about 3 7/8″ wide.

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  Step 2

  Using a large piece of scrap paper, draw a line 3/8 from the edge of the paper. This will be the distance from the top of the hem’s finished edge. Mark along the line every 3 7/8″ (or the width of your scallops).

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  Step 3

  Draw a line for the bottom of the scallop. This must be smaller than the hem width (in our case, 1 7/8″). In this case I drew a line 1 3/8″ from the top line.

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  Step 4

  Using a French curve or a can, draw your scallops. Cut out the template and put it on the fabric.

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  Step 5

  Cut out your pattern and sew it following the directions given. Stop when you reach the hem. Use pinking shears to pink the edge of the hem or serge it as I’ve done here.

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  Step 6

  Fold the hem. The hem plus the seam allowance is 1 7/8″. Fold the fabric this width all the way around the garment, right sides together. You’re folding it to the outside. Lightly press the fold to keep it in place.

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  Step 7

  Place the template at the top of the hem or a little lower. Trace the outline of the scallops onto the hem with marking tool. If the scallops are a little off, go ahead and sketch them to fit. It’s okay if it’s not perfect!

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  Step 8

  Stitch on the lines you've just drawn. Shorten the stitch length to around 1.8. This makes it so much easier to sew those curves. Start and end at each point. Lift the presser foot and adjust the fabric at each point. Repeat until all scallops are finished.

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  Step 9

  Trim the seam allowance. Trim close to the edge, about 1/8″.

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  Step 10

  Carefully snip to the point between each scallop. Get as close to the stitching line as you can without cutting the thread.

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  Step 11

  Flip hem to the inside. The scallops should look a bit disheveled like so.

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  Step 12

  Push the scallops out. Using the smooth, curved side of your point turner, push along the inside of each scallop. Move the point turner like a windshield wiper inside the scallop. This has to be done a couple of times to really get the scallop in shape. Press each scallop as you go.

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  Step 13

  Hand stitch the hem for a clean finish.

Comments

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Melissa N. · 4 projects 3rd August 2012

omg cool, thanks so much for tutorial! this might come in handy ;)

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Sweet C. · Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, CL · 5 projects 8th December 2011

Thanks for the tutorial! I have always wanted to make a hem like this and never knew how

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