Retro Nettie Dress

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  Step 1

  For the front trace the skirt portion of Nettie and mirror it so that you have the whole front. Add seam allowance to the waist since it will now have a seam. If you want to lengthen the skirt do it at this time. I've added 5" of length here. When all your changes are done, cut out the pattern piece.

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  Step 2

  Chose which side of the skirt will have the pleats. Measure down 2.5 inches from the waist and mark the location of the first pleat.

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  Step 3

  Mark 3 more pleat locations 2" apart from each other.

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  Step 4

  Using the pleat location marks, draw 4 lines across the whole pattern. Keep the lines parallel to each other, but they do not need to be completely horizontal across the pattern.

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  Step 5

  Cut the lines from one side seam almost all the way to the other. Leave a small paper hinge.

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  Step 6

  Place paper behind the cuts and open up the slashes to the width you want your pleat. On this dress I've spread them apart 1". Tape down the pleats at your chosen depth.

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  Step 7

  Cut off all the excess paper to complete the front skirt pattern.

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  Step 8

  For the back trace the pattern on the half. Add seam allowance to the CB and draw in a vent intake. I made mine 5" high and 1.5" wide.

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  Step 9

  I used the same technique for converting the neckline to a boat neck as outline in the boat neck tutorial. The shoulder seam doesn't need to be narrowed on Nettie. Place the french curve on the edge of the existing shoulder seam and redraw the neckline higher. Here's a quick look at my back bodice.

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  Step 10

  On the front add two pleats in the same manner as you did on the skirt. The lower pleat is 2.5" from the waist and the second is 2" away from the first pleat.

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  Step 11

  When sewing the dress, fold the pleats up towards the waist. Secure them with some basting before sewing the side seam. Once the side seam has been sewn the basting can be removed.

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  Step 12

  The neckline is finished in the same manner as in the boat neck tutorial.

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  Step 13

  The back vent is top-stitched just like you would on a woven garment.

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