How To Twin Needle Like A Boss

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  Step 1

  Having the right notions is key. If you're sewing knits, make sure the twin needle is a stretch needle (aka ball point).

  Note: Tunneling (the bane of twin needle stitching), when there's a bit of a bump between the stitch rows, is more likely to happen with the needles are further apart, so choosing a narrower twin needle helps.

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  Step 2

  Start by ironing your stabilizer to the wrong side of the knit, right next to the raw edge. For a hem or cuff that won't get much stretch, like the pants shown here, paper backer fusible tape works great. For a neckband, collar or sleeveless armhole that will get stretched and pulled more, use knit interfacing (that's got some stretch to it) & cut into a 5/8 wide strip or curve in the length required.

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  Step 3

  Fold hem up and press into place.

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  Step 4

  Add the twin needle to your machine and load the threads. Some machines may want you to adjust the position of the needle or attach an extra piece to hold the second spool of thread - consult your manual for your specific sewing machine's needs. Note: the spools should be pulling from opposite directions.

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  Step 5

  Wind a bobbin by hand with nylon thread. It's got a feathery, light feel to it which is ideal for this stretchy stitch. Be careful not to stretch it as you wind. Load into bobbin case.

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  Step 6

  Carefully keep the threads out of the way, begin stitching. It helps to do a bit of practice on some scrap first, to see if the upper thread tension may need adjusting. Using a walking foot (as shown here) can help keep slippery or fuzzy knits from shifting, but isn't required.

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  Step 7

  Topstitch close to where the raw edge is on the bottom side. If there is any slight tunneling (there shouldn't be much if you follow this technique), press with iron afterwards to help it to lie flat. Now you've just twin needled a hem like a boss!

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