Chrysa Bracelet

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• Step 1

  Create the Base 
of the Flower

  Cut and wax 3 yards (2.7 m) of FireLine. Wrap 2 yards (1.8 m) onto the bobbin and leave 1 yard (91.4 cm) unwound, with a needle on its end. Note: The bobbin shows at the bottom of the illustrations on the left side.

• 

  Step 2

  Round 4. Peyote stitch as in Round 3. Note: The illustration shows the beadwork as flat so that you can clearly see through which beads you need to pass; however, you’re actually creating a beaded tube, where the new beads sit on top of the other beads, not a flat piece of peyote stitch.

• 

  Step 3

  Rounds 5 and 6. For both rounds, peyote stitch around the pearl, using one lavender 15° for each stitch. When you complete Round 6, do not exit out of a lavender 15°—in other words, don’t step up. Pass the thread down through one 11° to the outside of the rounds of 15°s.

  Round 7. Stitch in the ditch, adding one silver 15° for each stitch and passing the thread through one 11° in the round of 11°s (figure 3). 


  Note: These 15°s actually sit on 
top of the round of 11°s. Pass the thread diagonally down one 11° to move to the next round below the current one.

• 

  Step 4

  Round 8. Working in the round of 11°s just below the round of silver 15°s that you just completed, string three lavender 15°s, skip one 11°, and pass through the next 11°. Stitch a round of netting around the ring to add a total of 13 units of netting (figure 4). 


  Note: These lavender 15° picots actually sit beneath the round of 11°s to the outside of beadwork. Pass the thread diagonally through the next 11° of the next round.

• 

  Step 5

  String five lavender 15°s and form a circle by passing the thread through the last of the four beads that you strung before you passed through the center lavender 15°. Then pass through the center lavender 15° again and through the first lavender 15° of the five beads that you just added. String three lavender 15°s, skip over the 3-mm bicone from the first unit of netting in Round 6 of step 6, and pass through the next lavender 15° of that same unit and through the silver 15° from the netting made in Round 5 of step 6. One petal is complete.

  Petals 2 to 13. Repeat the steps for petal 1 twelve more times. After making the last petal, exit out of one lavender 15° only; do not pass through the silver 15° from the netting made in Round 5 of step 6.

  Points of the petals. Pass over the silver 15° from the netting made in Round 5 of step 6 and, in the first petal that you made, go up the first six lavender 15°s. String one lavender 15°. Pass the thread down through the next six lavender 15°s. This stitching adds a point to the petal (figure 11).

  Add points to the rest of the petals around the edge of the flower. Finish off your working thread by making a half-hitch knot, passing the thread through some beads, and trimming the thread. Note: By going through all of the petals and adding points to them, you’re reinforcing them and making their shape more defined. The petals may start to ruffle a little, which is the desired effect.

• 

  Step 6

  Add Rounds 
to the Base
  In these rounds, you’re going to add more rounds to the existing peyote tube to widen the beaded bezel around the pearl.

  Unravel the thread from the bobbin and thread a needle onto it. Flip your beadwork to the back again and continue to work with the back of the flower facing up until otherwise specified. Note: The next two rounds also each use 13 beads.

  Round 1. Passing through the 11°s of Round 1 from step 3, peyote stitch the round using one Rizo for each stitch and exiting out of the first Rizo added.

  Round 2. Working in the Rizos that you added in Round 1 of this step, peyote stitch the round using one 11° for each stitch and passing through the holes at the top of the Rizos (figure 6). Note: The 11°s in this round sit between the Rizos, on top of the beads from prior rounds.

• 

  Step 7

  Make the Stamens

  Flip your beadwork to the back so that you can see the 11°s more easily. String three silver 15°s and one 11° and pass the thread back down through two silver 15°s. String one silver 15°, skip one 11° in the base (Round 1 from step 3), and pass through the next 11° (figure 5).

  Make 12 more stamens around the component, for a total of 13 stamens. Finish off your working thread by passing through a few beads until you find a place to tie a knot. Tie one half-hitch knot between two beads. Continue to pass through a few more beads, moving away from your knot. Trim away excess thread with your scissors or a thread burner.

• 

  Step 8

  Add Petals 
to the Flower
  Flip your flower to work the petals from the front.

  Petal 1. Follow along with figure 10. With your thread coming out of the center silver 15° from Round 5 of step 6, string one lavender 15°, one 4-mm bicone, and one lavender 15°. Then pass through the 11° at the tip of the stamen made in step 4, directly below your current location toward the center of the component. String one lavender 15° and pass the thread back through the 4-mm bicone that you just added. String one lavender 15° and pass through the silver 15° from the netting that you made in Round 5 of step 6, where you initially started the current round. Then pass through the first lavender 15° of the first unit of netting in Round 6 of step 6, which is next to a 3-mm bicone in that same unit. String four lavender 15°s, skip over that 3-mm bicone, and pass through the center lavender 15° in that same unit.

• Step 9

  Round 3. Add netting, using one 11° for each unit. When you’re done, you should be exiting a 
3-mm pearl.

  Round 4. Add netting, using three silver 15°s for each unit. This round of netting sits behind the 11°s that you added in Round 3 of this step, between the 3-mm pearls and above the center 11°s of the netting added in Round 1 of this step 
(figure 9).
  
  Round 5. Add netting, using one 3-mm pearl, one silver 15°, and one 3-mm pearl for each unit.

  Round 6. Add netting, using one lavender 15°, one 3-mm bicone, one lavender 15°, one 3-mm bicone, and one lavender 15° for each unit.

• 

  Step 10

  Add Netting 
on the Edge
  In the form of netting that this project uses, you’ll always end a round by passing through the first few beads in the first unit of the current round to come out its center bead. For example, figure 7 shows that you would pass the thread up through the first two 11°s of the first unit of a round of netting to exit at its center 11° to place the needle in position to begin the next round. To create the next unit, you will always add the required beads and then pass the thread through the center bead of the next unit of netting in the prior round (figure 7).

• 

  Step 11

  As follows, create six rounds of netting, some of which use only one bead per unit. Note: Each round contains 13 units of netting.

  Round 1. Add netting in this round, each time picking up three 11°s, skipping one Rizo, and passing the thread through the next 11° from Round 2 of step 5. Note: Because you’re working with the back of the flower facing up, this round of netting actually sits on top of the Rizos. The front of the component shows only the 15°s.

  Round 2. Add netting, using one 3-mm pearl for each unit (figure 8).

• 

  Step 12

  String one 4-mm bicone. String two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 8°, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s and pass the thread up through the top two 4-mm bicones. Fold this D-shaped loop so that it lies on top of the first loop on the right side, the one that also used an 8°. String two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 3-mm bicone, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass up through the same two 4-mm bicones. Fold this D-shaped loop on top of the first one on the left side, the one that also used a 3-mm bicone (figure 13).

• 

  Step 13

  Make the Strap 
on One Side

  You make the strap in flat spiral rope.

  Cut and condition 3 yards 
(2.7 m) of FireLine. Wrap half of the thread onto the bobbin and thread a needle. Flip your flower to the back and pass the thread through an 11° on the outside edge next to one of the pearls, moving from left to right. Leave the bobbin hanging at left. 


• Step 14

  String three 11°s, skip one 3-mm pearl, and pass through the next 11°. Repeat the same bead sequence once more.

• 

  Step 15

  String two 4-mm bicones, two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 8°, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass the thread up through the two 4-mm bicones. Fold the D-shaped loop to the side opposite the bobbin. String two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 3-mm bicone, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass the thread up through the 11° that is next to the first 4-mm bicone that you strung in this step and through the two 4-mm bicones.
  Fold this new D-shaped loop to the same side as the bobbin (figure 12).

• Step 16

  Repeat step 11 until you’ve reached the desired length to complete the first half of the first side of your strap of the bracelet. Note: Make sure that your D-shaped loops with 3-mm bicones are all on one side, and the loops with the 8°s are on the opposite side.

• Step 17

  Add a bead for the clasp. Pass through the two silver 15°s sitting above and to the right of the last 4-mm bicone. String three 11°s, one 8-mm crystal, and three silver 15°s, and pass the thread back down through the 8-mm crystal and one 11°. String two 11°s and pass the thread through all four silver 15°s sitting above the last 4-mm bicone, moving first through the two 15°s above and to the left of the bicone and then through the two 15°s to their right to form a triangle. Pass once more through all of the beads in this part of the clasp to reinforce the stitching. When you’re done, finish off your working thread by making a half-hitch knot, passing the thread through some beads, and trimming the thread.

• 

  Step 18

  Unravel the FireLine from the bobbin, condition it if needed, and thread a needle. String two 4-mm bicones, two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 8°, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass up through the two 4-mm bicones. Fold the D-shaped loop to the side opposite the 3-mm bicones on the first side of the strap. String two silver 15°s, one 11°, and one lavender 15° and pass the thread through the 3-mm bicone in the first unit on the completed side of the strap. String one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass through the 11° that is next to the first 4-mm bicone that you strung in this step and through the two 4-mm bicones (figure 14).

• Step 19

  String one 4-mm bicone, two silver 15°s, one 11°, one lavender 15°, one 8°, one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass up through the top two 4-mm bicones. Fold this D-shaped loop on top of the first loop that used an 8°. String two silver 15°s, one 11°, and one lavender 15°. Pass the thread through the next 3-mm bicone. String one lavender 15°, one 11°, and two silver 15°s. Pass the thread up through the same two 4-mm bicones. Make sure this new loop is on top of the first loop that used a 3-mm bicone.

• Step 20

  Repeat step 15 until you’ve made this strap the same length 
as the first.

• Step 21

  Repeat step 13 to add another bead for the clasp. You’ve now 
completed the strap on one side of your bracelet.

• Step 22

  Create Loops 
for the Clasp

  Create a beaded loop for the clasp as follows. Cut and condition 1 yard (91.4 cm) of new FireLine and thread a needle. String one 11° to use as a stop bead. Slide it down so it’s 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the other end.

• Step 23

  Work a tube using peyote stitch.

  Rounds 1 and 2. Follow along with figure 15. String eighteen 11°s. Pass through the first two 11°s to form a base. Note: The strung beads become Rounds 1 and 2.

  Round 3. Working in a tube, not outward, peyote stitch the round, using one 11° for each stitch. When you’ve completed this round, do not step up. Note: In the first three rounds and the fifth round, each round uses nine beads. Don’t pinch your beadwork flat! It should form a short tube, not a flat disk.

  Round 4. Use three lavender 15°s for each stitch in this round. These beads will embellish your peyote stitch band and form little picots around it. When you complete the round, step up through an 11° from the third round in this step.

  Round 5. Using one 11° for each stitch, peyote stitch the round. When you’ve completed the round, do not step up.

• Step 24

  Pass the thread counterclockwise through one 11°, three lavender 15°s, one 11°, three lavender 15°s, one 11°, and two lavender 15°s. You’re now exiting the center 15° of three lavender 15°s that you added in round 4 of step 19. String one silver 15° and one 3-mm bicone and, moving clockwise, pass the thread through the center 15° of the next group of three lavender 15°s. String one 3-mm bicone and one silver 15°. Change direction and, moving counter-clockwise, pass the thread through the center 15° of the next group of three lavender 15°s, as shown in figure 16. Later, these two 3-mm bicones will be connected to the strap of the bracelet. Using the remaining thread, pass through all the beads that you just added again to reinforce the stitching. Finish off your working thread by making a half-hitch knot, passing the thread through some beads, and trimming the thread.

• Step 25

  Remove the stop bead and thread a needle onto the tail. Pass the thread through one 11° and two lavender 15°s to exit at the center 15° of the three lavender 15°s that you added in round 4 of step 19. String one 3-mm bicone, one silver 15°, and one 3-mm bicone,
and pass the thread through the center 15° of the next three lavender 15°s (figure 17). When you’re done, finish off your working thread by making a half-hitch knot, passing the thread through some beads, and trimming the thread. The loop is finished.

• Step 26

  Repeat steps 18 to 21 to make another loop for the clasp.


• Step 27

  Make the Strap on the Other Side
  Start the strap of the bracelet for the other side of the flower by cutting and conditioning 3 yards (2.7 m) of FireLine. Wrap half of the thread onto the bobbin and thread the needle. Flip your flower to the back. Pass through the fourth protruding 11° in the back of the flower. These 11°s lie between the 3-mm pearls (figure 18). Note: The first double-wide strap attaches to three of the protruding 11°s from the back of the flower. The second double-wide strap also attaches to three protruding 11°s from the back of the flower. Try to position the second strap directly across from the first. Both straps take up six out of the 13 protruding 11°s, leaving seven protruding beads. After adding the straps, you should have three unattached, protruding 11°s on one side, and four on the other.

  Repeat steps 9 to 12 to make the first half of this strap for the unfinished side of the bracelet.

• 

  Step 28

  To attach the beaded loop for the clasp, pass through the two silver 15°s next to the 3-mm bicone, moving from right to left. String one 11°. Moving to the clasp, pass through one 3-mm bicone, string one lavender 15°, and pass the thread through the next 3-mm bicone. String one 11° and pass the thread through the four silver 15°s above the 4-mm bicone at the end of the strap, moving from right to left, to form a square (figure 19).

  Use your remaining thread to reinforce this connection. When you’re done, finish off your working thread by making a half-hitch knot, passing the thread through some beads, and trimming the thread.

• Step 29

  String one 11°, the 12-mm pearl, and one 11°. Pass the thread back down through the pearl and through the first 11°, entering from the side opposite the one 
you exited.

• Step 30

  Unravel the thread from the bobbin. Thread a needle and condition the thread if necessary. Repeat steps 14 to 16 to attach the other half of the second side of the strap of the bracelet. Repeat step 24 to add the other clasp. 


• 

  Step 31

  Bead rows of peyote stitch to create a short tube around 
the pearl.

  Rounds 1 and 2. String twelve 11°s. Pass through the 11° that you strung in step 2. These beads outline one side of the pearl. String another twelve 11°s. Pass through the very first 11° to outline the other side of the pearl (figure 1). Note: In tubular peyote stitch, the beads that you string become Rounds 1 and 2. For the next six rounds, each round uses 13 beads. Because you’re stitching in even-count peyote stitch, you need to step up at the end of each round to come out of the first bead that you added in the current round.

  Round 3. Using one 11° for each stitch, peyote stitch around 
the pearl.

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