Classic Lined Bell Shade

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• 

  Step 1

  Start by covering the top and bottom rings of the frame, as
  well as two opposite vertical struts, with bias binding or cotton
  tape. This is to provide a base to stitch the fabric to. Work out
  how much bias binding or tape you need by adding twice the
  circumference of the top and bottom rings and four times the
  length of one vertical strut. Wind the tape around the top ring
  where it meets a vertical strut (choose a vertical strut
  next to the gimbal if yours are
  positioned this way), overlapping
  each twist of tape. Cover the
  top ring, then go down the
  vertical strut, round the
  bottom ring and then finish
  off by covering the facing
  vertical strut in the same way.
  Tie off the ends securely and
  finish off with a couple of tiny
  stitches to secure.

• Step 2

  To work out how much fabric you need, measure one
  vertical strut and add 4 in. (10 cm), then measure the
  circumference of the bottom ring and add on 5 in. (12.5 cm).
  Cut a rectangle of fabric to this size from both the main fabric
  and the lining fabric.

• 

  Step 3

  Fold your fabric in half, short
  edges and right sides together, and
  with the straight of grain running
  vertically, pin the fabric to half the
  frame at the four corners where the
  two bound side struts join the top
  and bottom rings. Gently stretch
  this double layer of fabric to the
  sides, and pin it to the two vertical
  struts, stretching the fabric taut and
  adjusting the pins as you go.

• 

  Step 4

  Pin the fabric to the top and
  bottom rings in the same way,
  gently stretching the fabric and
  adjusting pins to remove any
  wrinkles until it is perfectly smooth.
  Keep the sharp ends of pins on
  the outside so you don’t scratch
  your fingers.

• 

  Step 5

  Once your fabric is smooth,
  take your tailor’s chalk or soft
  pencil and mark along the vertical
  struts between the pins, extending
  the lines 5⁄8 in. (1.5 cm) beyond the
  top and bottom rings. Mark the top
  and bottom rings in the same way.
  Without removing the fabric from
  the frame, tack the two layers of
  fabric together 3/4 in. (2 cm)
  outside the lines and remove
  all the pins.

• 

  Step 6

  Remove the fabric from the frame and,
  using a sewing machine, stitch down the
  vertical tailor’s chalk lines. Trim the
  vertical seam allowances to 1/4 in.
  (5 mm) but leave at least 11/4 in.
  (3 cm) excess outside the top and
  bottom (horizontal) chalk lines. Press the
  seams open. Make the lining in exactly the
  same way.

• 

  Step 7

  Turn the outer fabric right side out and slip it over
  the frame, lining up the side seams with the two bound
  struts and the horizontal lines with the top and bottom
  rings. Adjust to fit snugly and pin in place.

• 

  Step 8

  Using double thread, stitch the cover to the frame
  along the top and bottom rings, keeping the stitches to
  the outside. Trim away excess fabric close to stitching.

• 

  Step 9

  If your frame has a gimbal that joins in two places,
  simply unpick the top of the side seams by 3/4 in. (2 cm)
  to accommodate the gimbal. If your frame has a
  gimbal that joins the frame in more than two places,
  turn the shade upside down and drop the lining in,
  matching the side seams with the bound struts. With a
  pencil or tailor’s chalk, mark on your lining where the
  gimbal struts fall, cut 3/4 in. (2 cm) slits, and finish them
  off with matching bias binding. Carefully trim away the
  excess fabric as close to the stitching as you can.

• 

  Step 10

  Press the lining and place it inside the frame. Pin
  securely and stitch it in place in the same way as you
  did the outer fabric, keeping the stitching to the outside
  so it is covering the stitching on the outer fabric as
  much as possible.

• 

  Step 11

  Cut your chosen trim to the circumference of each
  ring, adding 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) for overlap. Using doublestick
  tape or strong glue, attach to the bottom of the
  frame to cover all stitching. Repeat with a matching
  plain trim at the top ring.

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