Basic Trousers With Pleats

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• 

  Step 1

  Front
  - Draw a rectangle A-B-C-D, with A-B equal
  to ¼ Hip circumference (e.g.: 92:4 = 2 cm)
  and A-C equal to total trouser length
  (e.g.: 105 cm).
  - A-E is the body rise measurement
  (24 cm) - B-F is the same as A-E.
  - E-E1 = 1/16 the Hip circumf. minus 1.5
  cm (e.g.: 92:16 = 5.7 - 1.5 = 4.2 cm).
  - A-G is the Hip length measurement
  (20 cm).
  - Draw G-H (Hip line).
  - E-I is the same as A-E.
  - Draw I-L.
  - E1-X = half of E1-F
  (e.g.: 23+4.2 = 27.2:2 = 13.6 cm)
  - Draw M-N passing through X and
  X1, and write PLEAT LINE and GRAIN.
  - M-O = Knee height (e.g.: 60 cm).
  - M-M2 = 7 cm.
  - Draw the darts with the length and
  width required.
  - B-B1 = 1 cm.
  - X1-L1 = 12 cm.
  - X1-I1 like X1-L1 (THIGH).
  - N-N1 = 1 cm.
  - N-C1 = 11 cm (or as desired).
  - N-D1 like N-C1.
  - Draw C1-N1-D1 (BOTTOM).
  - Draw E1-G-A1 with a curved line.
  - Draw E1-I1-C1 shaping it nicely.
  - Draw B1-A1 shaping it nicely and write
  WAIST.
  - Draw B1-H-F-L1-D1, shaped nicely.

• Step 2

  Back
  - Draw a rectangle A-B-C-D, with:
  - A-B equal to ¼ Hip circumference + 2 cm
  (e.g.: 92:4 = 23+2 = 25 cm) and A-C equal to total
  trouser length (e.g.: 105 cm).
  - A-E is the body rise measurement (e.g.: 24 cm).
  - B-F is the same as A-E.
  - E-E1 1/16 Hip circumference + 3 cm.
  (e.g.: 92:16 = 5.7+3 = 8.7 cm).
  - E1-E2 = 1 cm.
  - E-E3 = 2 cm.
  - A-G is the Hip length measurement (e.g.: 20 cm).
  - Draw G-H (Hip line).
  - E-I is the same as A-E.
  - Draw I-L.
  - E1-X = half of E1-F (e.g.: cm 26+9 = 35:2 = 17.5).
  - Draw M-N passing through X and write PLEAT LINE
  and GRAIN.
  - M-O Knee height. (e.g.: cm 60).
  - A-A1 = 3.5 cm.
  - A1- A2 = 1-3.5 cm.
  - B-B1 = 1 cm (check waist curves).
  - B1-B2 discard = ½ B1- A2.
  - Draw the darts with desired length and width.
  - X1-L1 = 13 cm.
  - X1-I1 like X1- L1 (THIGH).
  - N-n1 CM 1.
  - N-C1 12 cm (or as desired).
  - N-D1 like N-C1.
  - Draw C1-N1-D1 (BOTTOM).
  - Draw E2-G-A2 with a curved line.
  - Draw E2-I1-C1 shaping it nicely.
  - Draw B1- A2 shaping it nicely and write WAIST.
  - Draw B1-H-F-L1-D1 shaped nicely.

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