Tulip Back Top

Alter a plain shirt pattern to make a cool cross-over effect

Posted by dixiediy

About

For my project I used the Grainline Studio's Scout Tee pattern but you could use any shirt pattern that has a one-piece back. I didn't make any changes to the sleeves or front pieces so you only have to make one new pattern piece. You can control how much back skin is showing by how high up your cross-over pieces reach and how far from the side seams the curve upward begins.

Share

You Will Need (5 things)

  • French Curve (optional)
  • Pencil(s)
  • Tracing Paper
  • Ruler
  • Shirt Sewing Pattern

Steps (7 steps, 45 minutes)

  1. 1

    First, trace your back pattern piece into a full size piece.

  2. 2

    Mark about 4 or 5 inches in from the bottom left of the hem along the seam line, not the bottom raw edge.

  3. 3

    I decided I wanted my overlapping pieces to connect at the armcye. The sleeve cap markings make an easy match point. You could connect them higher in the arm or even at the shoulder seam.

  4. 4

    Now connect the point at the hem to the armcye point using a french curve (or you could eye ball it). This will be the new stitching line.

  5. 5

    Draw a new hem allowance/cutting line next to that that new stitching line.

    You may need to adjust the hem allowance at the armcye by folding back the allowance before cutting and tracing the hem allowance so that it connects to the arm hole curve.

  6. 6

    Cut out and label your new pattern piece.

    From your fabric cut two of these back pieces (I'm using a pillowcase for the fabric for my shirt).

  7. 7

    Cut the rest of your fabric pieces out.

    First stitch the side seams of the front and back pieces together.

    Then hem the whole bottom of the shirt. It needs to be hemmed before you attach the sleeves.

    From there you can assemble the top normally: stitch the shoulders, attaching sleeves, finishing neckline and sleeve hems, etc.