https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/summer-belt • Posted by Andi
The Summer Belt is a quick project that is great for using up leftover yarn. It makes a cute accessory that is wearable on hot days. Materials: - 45 (50, 50, 55, 60, 60, 65, 70) yds tough DK weight yarn – Turning the casing and threading the elastic is rough on your yarn. Use something tough. I used Jo Sharp DK Classic. - 24.5, (26.5, 28.5, 30.5, 32.5, 34.5, 36.5, 38.5) inches of 1 inch elastic – I simply took one yard of elastic, wrapped it around my waist so that it was comfortably snug and cut it at that length. Elastic measurements are just a suggestion. - Scrap yarn - 3.75mm needles - A third needle and/or a darning needle - 1 hook style belt buckle – You’ll have to eyeball the openings as none of the belt buckles I’ve looked at give a measurement for that. The buckle I used lists 1.25 inches as its total width. - Matching thread - Sewing needle Sizes: 24.5 (26.5, 28.5, 30.5, 32.5, 34.5, 36.5, 38.5) inches Gauge: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2 x 2 inch
The Summer Belt is a quick project that is great for using up leftover yarn. It makes a cute accessory that is wearable on hot days. Materials: - 45 (50, 50, 55, 60, 60, 65, 70) yds tough DK weight yarn – Turning the casing and threading the elastic is rough on your yarn. Use something tough. I used Jo Sharp DK Classic. - 24.5, (26.5, 28.5, 30.5, 32.5, 34.5, 36.5, 38.5) inches of 1 inch elastic – I simply took one yard of elastic, wrapped it around my waist so that it was comfortably snug and cut it at that length. Elastic measurements are just a suggestion. - Scrap yarn - 3.75mm needles - A third needle and/or a darning needle - 1 hook style belt buckle – You’ll have to eyeball the openings as none of the belt buckles I’ve looked at give a measurement for that. The buckle I used lists 1.25 inches as its total width. - Matching thread - Sewing needle Sizes: 24.5 (26.5, 28.5, 30.5, 32.5, 34.5, 36.5, 38.5) inches Gauge: 12 sts x 16 rows = 2 x 2 inch
Provisional cast on 153 (165, 177, 189, 201, 213, 225, 236) with scrap yarn.
Row 1: Switch to main yarn and knit to end. Row 2: Purl to end. Row 3: Knit to end. Row 4: Knit to end.
Row 5: K2, *k2, p1, k3; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 6: P1, *p2, k1, p1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Row 7: K2, *p1, k3, p1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 8: P1, *k1, p5; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 9: Repeat Row 7. Row 10: Repeat Row 6. Row 11: Repeat Row 5. -OR- Work chart.
Row 12: Knit to end. Row 13: Knit to end. Row 14: Purl to end. Row 15: Knit to end.
Remove provisional cast on and place stitches on the third needle. With the wrong sides facing out, three needle bind off all stitches (this is what I did) -OR- with right sides facing out, graft together the live stitches using the kitchener stitch. If you used the three needle bind off, your work will be inside out when you finish. Turn you work right side out. Secure all ends and pull them to the inside of the casing.
Thread the elastic through the knit casing. Arrange the casing so the seam runs down the center of the back with the purl ridges along the edges of the elastic. With the needle and thread, sew the ends of the casing shut, stitching through the elastic ends at the same time to secure it. Make sure that the casing isn’t twisted before sewing the second end. Thread half an inch of the belt through the loop of one part of the buckle. Sew it down using the needle and thread. Follow your knit stitches when sewing on the outside of the belt to make your sewn stitches as invisible as possible. Repeat for the other half of the belt buckle.