https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/ribbed-boot-cuffs • Posted by nora.mcmanus
Accessorize, and still save $! You crochet these Ribbed Boot Cuffs "sideways", and sew together to make a tube -- the seam will be hidden in between the ribbing, anyway. This way you can also add sizes without tearing out your previous work! Exact gauge is not important, but YOUR gauge is very important to you. I'll explain... I recommend crocheting a swatch -- even just 3 or 4 small rows -- and measuring it, just to see how many stitches per inch (or cm) of yarn you'd need. You don't have to "stop, knot & cut" (i.e. keep the swatch for posterity) unless you want to. Once I've crocheted a swatch, and measured it (& snapped a photo. I catalogged with all the manufacturer's info. in the "notes" section, noted the average number of scs, hdcs, or dcs, etc., per inch & per cm), I usually unravel the swatch and wrap it back onto the skein and use it for the project I'm working on. This way you can easily see which yarn would give you the best fit beforehand, based on your gauge, and your calf or leg measurements. Crochet a sample swatch, and measure how many stitches per inch (or centemeter). Then measure the width of your calf, to give you an estimate of how much yarn you'll need. For Petites', and for kids' sizes, you may get a "freebie" (in my mind, a second project using leftover yarn from an earlier project -- is as good as "free"). This project can be adjusted to fit any size, length or width... (although, at some point the Boot Cuffs will become Leg-Warmers). The sizing is (pretty much) one-size-fits-all, but if you're doing this project with scrap yarn, you may want to measure, just to give yourself assurance that there will be enough yarn to complete a pair of Boot Cuffs, before you begin. If you have a tendency to crochet too tight or too loose, this will affect the size, stretch and overall fit.
Accessorize, and still save $! You crochet these Ribbed Boot Cuffs "sideways", and sew together to make a tube -- the seam will be hidden in between the ribbing, anyway. This way you can also add sizes without tearing out your previous work! Exact gauge is not important, but YOUR gauge is very important to you. I'll explain... I recommend crocheting a swatch -- even just 3 or 4 small rows -- and measuring it, just to see how many stitches per inch (or cm) of yarn you'd need. You don't have to "stop, knot & cut" (i.e. keep the swatch for posterity) unless you want to. Once I've crocheted a swatch, and measured it (& snapped a photo. I catalogged with all the manufacturer's info. in the "notes" section, noted the average number of scs, hdcs, or dcs, etc., per inch & per cm), I usually unravel the swatch and wrap it back onto the skein and use it for the project I'm working on. This way you can easily see which yarn would give you the best fit beforehand, based on your gauge, and your calf or leg measurements. Crochet a sample swatch, and measure how many stitches per inch (or centemeter). Then measure the width of your calf, to give you an estimate of how much yarn you'll need. For Petites', and for kids' sizes, you may get a "freebie" (in my mind, a second project using leftover yarn from an earlier project -- is as good as "free"). This project can be adjusted to fit any size, length or width... (although, at some point the Boot Cuffs will become Leg-Warmers). The sizing is (pretty much) one-size-fits-all, but if you're doing this project with scrap yarn, you may want to measure, just to give yourself assurance that there will be enough yarn to complete a pair of Boot Cuffs, before you begin. If you have a tendency to crochet too tight or too loose, this will affect the size, stretch and overall fit.
I'll be using dc for this project. Chain 25 (that's 22 + 3 for turning chain). Row 1. In BACK LOOP (of 3rd stitch from hook), continue stitching in BACK LOOP only, until the end of the row. Chain up 3.
Row 2. Place first dc through, using FRONT LOOP only, continue 1 dc in each FRONT LOOP until you reach the end. Chain up 3..
Row 3. Place first dc through, using BACK LOOP only, continue 1dc in each BACK LOOP until you reach the end of the row. Chain up 3.
Crochet each row, alternating (between one row with dc through FRONT LOOP only, followed by the next row with the dc going through BACK LOOP only), for Row 4 thru Row 24 (or whatever row number corresponds with your measurements.
At the end of the final few rows, "try it on" for size. You can do this by wrapping the Boot Cuff around your calf, and holding the ends together to form an imaginary seam. Continue if you need additional rows. If this fit works for you, you may stop and knot here... but don't cut the yarn yet! Be sure to leave a generous length of yarn after the knot (about 24" or so), and use this length of yarn to fasten / sew the bottom of the beginning Row, to top of the ending Row. note the number of rows (for the second cuff, and for future reference). If you are "between sizes", I suggest going 1 Row smaller, rather than making the Boot Cuffs in a size that's 1 Row (or nearly 1 Row) too large. Loose-fitting Boot Cuffs would probably end up falling underneath and "get lost", anyway.