https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/raichu • Posted by Linda P.
Raichu has been much requested and I finally got around to making him. Parts of him are a little different than most pokemon (namely the ears and tail) and the instructions look much more difficult than it really is. This is definitely one of the pokemon I would recommend for those with at least a little experience in making dolls, but with patience even a beginner could manage it :) As always, if you find anything in the pattern that's confusing or if you find a typo, let me know and I'll fix it asap. NOTES: The actual size of your hook doesn't really matter, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in tight even stitches. Crocheting too loosely, or using too large of a hook for the yarn weight, will result in the stuffing showing through. In general, G hook and WW yarn makes for a nice even and tight stitch for making dolls. The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row, indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. When sewing the parts together, I recommend using a good sewing thread, doubled, on a strong sewing needle. The reason for this is to prevent adding unwanted bulk to the joints or ridges around sewn on parts. The other advantage is that you can use thread that matches the yarn and your 'seams' are much less noticeable and generally smoother. When working with two different colored pieces, use thread to match the 'top' piece or the lighter of the two pieces - whichever seems to work best for you. (a little test never hurts before committing to sewing on a piece)
Raichu has been much requested and I finally got around to making him. Parts of him are a little different than most pokemon (namely the ears and tail) and the instructions look much more difficult than it really is. This is definitely one of the pokemon I would recommend for those with at least a little experience in making dolls, but with patience even a beginner could manage it :) As always, if you find anything in the pattern that's confusing or if you find a typo, let me know and I'll fix it asap. NOTES: The actual size of your hook doesn't really matter, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in tight even stitches. Crocheting too loosely, or using too large of a hook for the yarn weight, will result in the stuffing showing through. In general, G hook and WW yarn makes for a nice even and tight stitch for making dolls. The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row, indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. When sewing the parts together, I recommend using a good sewing thread, doubled, on a strong sewing needle. The reason for this is to prevent adding unwanted bulk to the joints or ridges around sewn on parts. The other advantage is that you can use thread that matches the yarn and your 'seams' are much less noticeable and generally smoother. When working with two different colored pieces, use thread to match the 'top' piece or the lighter of the two pieces - whichever seems to work best for you. (a little test never hurts before committing to sewing on a piece)
HEAD/BODY (beginning at top of head, with yellow-orange) Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 8-10: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 11: sc in next 20 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 20 sc (44) Rnd 12-13: sc in each sc around (44) Rnd 14: sc in next 20 sc, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 20 sc (42) Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 16: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 17-18: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 19: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) (ending of head/beginning of body --- now is a good time to begin stuffing if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firmly, remembering to 'shape' the nose/muzzle feature that was created in rounds 11-14. Continue to stuff and shape as you progress.) Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 21-22: sc in each sc around (40) Rnd 23: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (45) Rnd 24-25: sc in each sc around (45) Rnd 26: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (50) Rnd 27-40: sc in each sc around (50) Rnd 41: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40) Rnd 42: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 43: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20) Rnd 44: dec over next 2 sc around (10) F/O, leaving tail. Finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape. Weave the tail through the final round and pull tight to close. Secure well and weave in end.
ARMS (make 2) Beginning with dark brown: Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8) Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, in last sc, work 2 sc, changing to orange-yellow in last sc (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12) Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 11: sc next 7 sc, ch 1 turn (leave remaining stitches unworked) (7) Rnd 12: sc 5, dec over last 2 sc (6) Rnd 13: sc 4, dec over last 2 sc (5) F/O. Stuff arm moderately firm, enough to shape well without overstuffing. Do not close opening.
LEGS: (make 2) (NOTE: when instructed to dec over 3 sc, it's the same as a regular dec, only over three stitches at once instead of 2) Using orange-yellow Rnd 1: 7 sc in Magic Ring (7) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (14) Rnd 3: sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (22) Rnd 5: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (24) Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 9: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22) Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat dec once more), sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat dec once more) (18) Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 3 sc (14) Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc (12) Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc around (12) F/O. Using the back end of a hook, a chopstick or eraser end of a pencil, stuff the leg moderately firm. Don't over stuff, as you will need a little bit of 'shifting' room when sewing the leg to the side of the body.
FEET: (make 2) Beginning with dark brown: Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around, change to orange-yellow in last stitch of round (12) Rnd 6-13: sc in each sc around (12) Stuff feet at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm, but do not overstuff. Rnd 14: dec in next 2 sc around (6) F/O. Add any stuffing need to finish the shaping. Weave tail of yarn through final round and pull to close. Secure end and weave in . Sew foot onto a leg, taking extra care to position the foot so that it will face the proper direction when sewn onto the body. (see the pictures to help with positioning)
BELLY SPOT Using light yellow Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (48) F/O. Sew belly spot to front of body as shown, stretching it sightly to create an oval shape. Be careful in keeping the oval shape even, and properly centered below the 'nose/muzzle' of the head. Pinning the piece first to the body before sewing will help keep things straight for you.
EARS: (make 4) (Read through the ear assembly carefully before beginning - the ears must be made with a left ear and right ear, or they won't work. Patience is key with the trim around the ears, it looks alot worse in writing than it is in practice.) Using orange-yellow Row 1: Ch 11, sc in second ch from hook and each remaining chain (10) Row 2: Dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, leave remaining sc unworked (7) Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (7) Rnd 4: Dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (7) Rnd 5: repeat row 3 (7) F/O, weave in end
LEFT EAR ASSEMBLY: . Placing 2 of the ear pieces together (matching shapes) and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your RIGHT, attach the orange yellow yarn to the upper right corner. Sc through all layers across the top and around the 'edge' evenly, then work across the 'bottom' of the ear. When you reach the bottom point of the 'v' make the 'curl' by ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and each chain back up to the ear. Continue sc around the v of the ear and sc in same sc as joining. F/O Attach the dark brown to same upper right corner (make sure the 'curl' is at the bottom right). Ch1 after joining and 2 sc in same sc as join. Sc across top and around smaller side and three sc across the bottom, turn and slip stitch evenly all the way back around to the first sc of the dark brown. F/O weave in all ends. RIGHT EAR ASSEMBLY: Placing 2 of the ear pieces together (matching shapes), and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your LEFT, attach the orange-yellow to the bottom right corner sc evenly up the side, across the top and down through the 'v' to the bottom of the v. Ch 7, slip stitch in the 2nd ch from the hook and across to the ear and continue to sc around, slip stitch in first sc. F/O Attach the dark brown to the third sc to the left of where you joined the orange-yellow before, working up the side and around the top, sc evenly to the top of the v, 2 sc in corner stitch at top of v, turn and slip stitch evenly across to first sc of dark brown. F/O
TAIL: Using dark brown Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2-48: sc in each sc around (6) Rnd 49: sc 4, ch1 turn (leave remaining scs unworked) (4) Rnd 50: sc 2, dec over last 2 sc (3) F/O. Stuffing tail is not necessary, but if you want to make it somewhat poseable, you can moderately stuff it as you progress. I tried both ways, and found that leaving it unstuffed was preferable.
LIGHTNING BOLT: (make 2) Using light yellow: Row 1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (3) Row 2-8: sc in each sc across (3) Row 9: sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (4) Row 10: sc in each sc across (4) Row 11-12: repeat rows 9 and 10 (5) Row 13-14: repeat rows 9 and 10 (6) Row 15-16: repeat rows 9 and 10 (7) Row 17-18: repeat rows 9 and 10 (8) Row 19-20: repeat rows 9 and 10 (9) Row 21: repeat row 9 (10) Row 22: sc in each sc across to end (10) Row 23: ch 6, sc in 2nd sc from hook and remaining 4 chs, sc in next five sc of previous row (10) Row 24: sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (9) Row 25: sc in each sc across (9) Row 26-27: repeat rows 24 and 25 (8) Row 28-29: repeat rows 24 and 25 (7) Row 30-31: repeat rows 24 and 25 (6) Row 32-33: repeat rows 24 and 25 (5) Row 34-35: repeat rows 24 and 25 (4) Row 36-37: repeat rows 24 and 25 (3) Row 38-39: repeat rows 24 and 25 (2) Row 40: dec over 2 sc (1) Row 41: sc in sc. F/O. Weave in end on first of the two bolt pieces. Leave a fairly long tail on the second of the two bolt pieces. Place the two pieces together, matching the shape. Using a yarn needle and the long tail left on the second piece, whip stitch the two pieces together carefully. When you reach the 'bottom' of the bolt, (the beginning row) insert the closed end of the tail (smaller end) and securely sew through all layers to attach the tail to the bolt. Continue whipstitching up the other side of the bolt to the top. Secure and weave in ends.
STRIPES: (make 2) Using dark brown Ch 16. Slip stitch in second ch from hook. sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 5 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, slip stitch in last ch. F/O.
CHEEK PATCHES: Using light yellow: Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) F/O weave in ends
FINAL ASSEMBLY: I recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing to ensure that you have everything like you want it. Make any adjustments as needed before sewing. Sew all the pieces to the body. Make sure that the ears, arms and legs are positioned correctly before sewing. Take care when sewing to center ears and cheek patches to the 'nose' at the front of the head. Arms and legs are positioned and sewn as shown in the pictures. Sew tail to bottom of body at the middle. Stripes are placed as shown and sewn in place. Using a bit of sewing thread doubled, or embroidery floss (or dark yarn) make a few small whipstitches at the top of the 'nose' as shown. Sew or glue on small circles from black felt for eyes, and two very tiny circles of white for catchlights. Embroider mouth shape as shown in same thread or yarn used for nose.