https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/psychedelic-rainstorm • Posted by Ryland Peters & Small
I am convinced that this is actually how rainbows are made. The pretty colors against the silhouette make a lovely display and splitting the design across three hoops gives an extra twist of interest. FINISHED DESIGN SIZE Rain cloud: 5 x 5 in. (13 x 13 cm); 69 x 69 stitches Rain: 3¼ x 3½ in. (8 x 9 cm); 48 x 51 stitches Sheltering girl: 3¼ x 5½ in. (8 x 14 cm); 46 x 78 stitches
I am convinced that this is actually how rainbows are made. The pretty colors against the silhouette make a lovely display and splitting the design across three hoops gives an extra twist of interest. FINISHED DESIGN SIZE Rain cloud: 5 x 5 in. (13 x 13 cm); 69 x 69 stitches Rain: 3¼ x 3½ in. (8 x 9 cm); 48 x 51 stitches Sheltering girl: 3¼ x 5½ in. (8 x 14 cm); 46 x 78 stitches
Fold the linen pieces in half across the length and width, and crease them. The point where the creases cross is the center of your fabric.
Find the center of the pattern, as indicated by the lines on the charts. Working from the center outward and following the charts, begin stitching.
Paint the outer ring of the embroidery hoops bright yellow, then leave them to dry. Frame your embroidery in the hoop (see below for instructions). TOP TIP There’s no need to worry if you miscount a few squares here and there in the middle rain piece. No one will notice, I promise!
HOW TO FRAME IN AN EMBROIDERY HOOP Using an embroidery hoop is a quick, affordable, and effective way to frame your finished work. Separate the two rings of your hoop and paint the outer hoop in the desired color. (The inner hoop will be completely covered, so there is no need to paint this.) You might need a couple of coats. Leave the ring to dry for 24 hours, then carefully scrape off any paint you might have accidentally got on the metal hoop fastenings.
Take your beautiful, crease-free backing fabric (uh-oh, might have to get the iron out here). Using tailor’s chalk or a soft pencil, lightly draw around the outer hoop ring on the reverse of the backing fabric. Cut out carefully and put to one side.
Position your finished, washed, and pressed cross-stitch piece over the inner hoop, then place the outer hoop on top. With the screw at the top, pull the fabric nice and taut. When you are happy, start screwing, stopping to tighten the fabric again after each half turn.
Position your finished, washed, and pressed cross-stitch piece over the inner hoop, then place the outer hoop on top. With the screw at the top, pull the fabric nice and taut. When you are happy, start screwing, stopping to tighten the fabric again after each half turn.
Trim your cross-stitched fabric down, leaving about a 1½ -in. (4-cm) frill around the outside of the hoop. If you are using a 3-in. (7.5-cm) hoop, then leave only a 3/4-in. (2-cm) frill.
Trim your cross-stitched fabric down, leaving about a 1½ -in. (4-cm) frill around the outside of the hoop. If you are using a 3-in. (7.5-cm) hoop, then leave only a 3/4-in. (2-cm) frill.
Thread your needle with a very long piece of strong thread. Starting at the bottom and leaving a tail of about 4 in. (10 cm), use running stitch to weave the thread in and out of your aida or linen about 3/4 in. cm) away from the hoop, all the way around; work your stitches about 3/8 in. (1 cm) away if you are using 3-in. (7.5-cm) hoop.
Thread your needle with a very long piece of strong thread. Starting at the bottom and leaving a tail of about 4 in. (10 cm), use running stitch to weave the thread in and out of your aida or linen about 3/4 in. cm) away from the hoop, all the way around; work your stitches about 3/8 in. (1 cm) away if you are using 3-in. (7.5-cm) hoop.
When finished, pull the two tail ends of the thread downward to gather the fabric into the center of the hoop. Tie a tight knot to secure the thread ends together. Ask someone with clean hands to lend you a finger to assist here, as you really don’t want to lose any tension while tying the knot.
When finished, pull the two tail ends of the thread downward to gather the fabric into the center of the hoop. Tie a tight knot to secure the thread ends together. Ask someone with clean hands to lend you a finger to assist here, as you really don’t want to lose any tension while tying the knot.
Carefully unscrew and remove the outer hoop. Center your backing-fabric circle around the inner hoop, so that it covers the back of your stitching. Thread your needle with cotton thread and use the simple over-and-over action of hemming stitch to attach the backing fabric to the cross-stitched piece at the side of the hoop, so that the stitches will be hidden when the outer ring is replaced. Make sure you keep the backing fabric taut and wrinkle free while you are stitching.
Carefully unscrew and remove the outer hoop. Center your backing-fabric circle around the inner hoop, so that it covers the back of your stitching. Thread your needle with cotton thread and use the simple over-and-over action of hemming stitch to attach the backing fabric to the cross-stitched piece at the side of the hoop, so that the stitches will be hidden when the outer ring is replaced. Make sure you keep the backing fabric taut and wrinkle free while you are stitching.
Replace the outer hoop and tighten the screw. Hang straight onto a nail or deep picture hook or tie a piece of ribbon onto the screw. Et voilà! Your piece is beautifully framed and ready to show off.
Replace the outer hoop and tighten the screw. Hang straight onto a nail or deep picture hook or tie a piece of ribbon onto the screw. Et voilà! Your piece is beautifully framed and ready to show off.
Take your beautiful, crease-free backing fabric (uh-oh, might have to get the iron out here). Using tailor’s chalk or a soft pencil, lightly draw around the outer hoop ring on the reverse of the backing fabric. Cut out carefully and put to one side.
HOW TO FRAME IN AN EMBROIDERY HOOP Using an embroidery hoop is a quick, affordable, and effective way to frame your finished work. Separate the two rings of your hoop and paint the outer hoop in the desired color. (The inner hoop will be completely covered, so there is no need to paint this.) You might need a couple of coats. Leave the ring to dry for 24 hours, then carefully scrape off any paint you might have accidentally got on the metal hoop fastenings.