Modern Madras Reversible Table Runner

Ombre Quilts

Posted by Search Press

About

The Modern Madras Reversible Table Runner is a simple study in ombrés. This is a beginner project because you limit your choice to just three or four fabrics per side. It’s very manageable and has fantastic results. All your friends and family will want you to make one for them! I chose a warm palette on one side and a cool one for the other.

Finished runner: 72 ̋ × 161/2 ̋

Note: Warm colors tend to be from yellow to orange to red hues. Cool colors tend to be from purple to blue to green hues.

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You Will Need (6 things)

  • Warm side

  • Blush, Ember, and Sundance Fabric : 1/2 yard each

  • Cool side

  • Tornado, Shadow, and Spa Fabric : 1/2 yard each
  • Opal Fabric : 1/4 yard
  • Thin Cotton Batting : 72 ̋ × 161/2

Steps (11 steps, 120 minutes)

  1. 1

    DESIGNING THE TABLE RUNNER

    The warm side of the table runner blends from lights to darks, with a lighter madras transparency down the middle of the runner. You will have extra blocks to play with and narrow bars to choose between. This is where you can easily exercise your color and value exploration with ombré fabrics. Because this is a small project, it should not be overwhelming nor terribly time-consuming.

    The cool side flips the center ombré to be opposite of the edges, which creates a bit more drama. This palette reminds me of the tide pools in Mendocino, California, where the cold waters make your feet ache but shimmering bits of opalescence amongst the cool greens and aquas keep you searching.

    Tip: You can repeat the pattern five more times and make a lap quilt with each row being a different color story!

  2. 2

    CUTTING
    Cutting is based on 42 ̋ usable width of fabric (WOF).

    Warm side
    Cut 2 strips 6 ̋ × WOF each of Blush, Ember, and Sundance; subcut each strip into 6 squares 6 ̋ × 6 ̋.
    Cut 1 strip 11/2 ̋ × WOF each of Blush, Ember, and Sundance; subcut each strip into 6 rectangles 11/2 ̋ × 6 ̋.

  3. 3

    Cool side
    Cut 2 strips 6 ̋ × WOF each of Tornado, Shadow, and Spa; subcut each strip into 6 squares 6 ̋ × 6 ̋.

    Cut 2 strips 11/2 ̋ × WOF of Opal; subcut each strip into 7 rectangles 11/2 ̋ × 6 ̋.

    Cut 1 strip 11/2 ̋ × WOF of Spa; subcut into
    4 rectangles 11/2 ̋ × 6 ̋.

  4. 4

    CONSTRUCTION

    Warm Side

    Arrange your squares and rectangles from light to dark. Refer to the warm-side photo.

    Tip: Make one block at a time, returning it back into your layout, so you don’t get them mixed up.

  5. 5

    For the outer-row blocks, sew a 6 ̋ × 6 ̋ square to each side of a 11/2 ̋ × 6 ̋ rectangle, right sides together. Press the seams to the rectangle. Make 12.

  6. 6

    For the long center-row blocks, sew a 6 ̋ × 6 ̋ square to each side of a 11/2 ̋ × 6 ̋ rectangle, right sides together. Press the seams away from the rectangle. Make 6.

  7. 7

    Choose the 3 blocks in the first unit and sew them together into a unit, in the order shown. Press the seams open.

  8. 8

    Repeat Step 4 to make 6 units that contain 3 blocks each. Be sure to keep them in the correct order.

  9. 9

    Sew the units together. Press the seams open.

  10. 10

    Cool Side
    Repeat Warm Side, Steps 1–6 (page 23 and above) using the cool-side fabrics.

  11. 11

    FINISHING

    For a table topper, I prefer the look of an envelope-style finish rather than quilt binding. It’s cleaner, and I just tie off the quilt threads and tuck them into the seam to bury them.

    1. Place the warm and cool sides right sides together, matching the seams. Sew together with a 1/4 ̋ seam allowance around 3 sides, leaving one short end open.
    2. Trim off the triangle corners. Spray baste the batting and place it on one side. Reverse out and smooth the table runner on both sides.
    3. Fold 1/4 ̋ in on the open short side and stitch closed.
    4. With your domestic machine, matchstick quilt for a professional finish. The matchstick finish washes great and looks better with use—and you know this will get lots of use!