Cut Out + Keep

Jump Shot Hoodie

Amy Herzog’s Sweater Sourcebook

https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/jump-shot-hoodie • Posted by Abrams

Is there anything more comfortable, familiar, and throw-it-on-all-the-time than a hoodie? This one features a zipper opening, kicky ribbed details, and simple I-cord edgings. I’ve worked it up in a soft, hardwearing heathered wool and a more bodyconscious fit, but it would look equally great worn oversize and cozy. The sleeve and body ribbing continues into the raglan shaping, highlighting this construction feature. (Variation idea: Add kangaroo patch pockets to the fronts!) Jump Shot is worked in pieces from the bottom up, and then seamed for stability. The hood is picked up and added from the neckline; it is worked flat until the top, at which point the stitches are folded in half and joined using a 3-needle bind-off. After the hood is complete, I-cord is used to make facings for a zipper. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 30 (31¾, 34¼, 36, 37½, 40¼, 41¾, 44, 47¾, 52, 56¼, 60)" [76 (80.5, 87, 91.5, 95.5, 102, 106, 112, 121.5, 132, 143, 152.5) cm] chest, zipped Note: Sweater is intended to be worn with 3–4" (7.5–10 cm) ease in the bust; shown in size 36" (91.5 cm). YARN Blue Sky Fibers Woolstok [100% fine highland wool; 370 yards (338 meters) / 150 grams]: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) hanks #1302 Gravel Road NEEDLES One pair straight needles, one 24" (60 cm) long or longer circular needle (for Hood), and one pair of double-pointed needles (for Applied I-cord), size US 6 (4 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Stitch markers, separating zipper approximately 22 (22, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28)" [56 (56, 61, 61, 61, 66, 66, 66, 66, 71, 71, 71) cm] long GAUGE 22 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st NOTES If your size gives the number 0 for a particular instruction, skip that instruction and proceed to the next instruction. Unless otherwise specified, raglan decreases should be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped, as follows: For leftslanting edges: [K1, p1] twice, ssk, knit to end; for right-slanting edges: knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice. Increases should also be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped, as follows: For right-slanting edges: On RS rows, k1, M1R, knit to end on; WS rows, p1, M1PR, purl to end. For left-slanting edges: On RS rows, knit to last st, M1L, k1; on WS rows, p1, M1PL, purl to end.

You will need

Project Budget
Reasonably Priced

Time

20 h 00

Difficulty

Tricky
Medium 2019 05 07 212945 amyherzogsweater p164

Description

Is there anything more comfortable, familiar, and throw-it-on-all-the-time than a hoodie? This one features a zipper opening, kicky ribbed details, and simple I-cord edgings. I’ve worked it up in a soft, hardwearing heathered wool and a more bodyconscious fit, but it would look equally great worn oversize and cozy. The sleeve and body ribbing continues into the raglan shaping, highlighting this construction feature. (Variation idea: Add kangaroo patch pockets to the fronts!) Jump Shot is worked in pieces from the bottom up, and then seamed for stability. The hood is picked up and added from the neckline; it is worked flat until the top, at which point the stitches are folded in half and joined using a 3-needle bind-off. After the hood is complete, I-cord is used to make facings for a zipper. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 30 (31¾, 34¼, 36, 37½, 40¼, 41¾, 44, 47¾, 52, 56¼, 60)" [76 (80.5, 87, 91.5, 95.5, 102, 106, 112, 121.5, 132, 143, 152.5) cm] chest, zipped Note: Sweater is intended to be worn with 3–4" (7.5–10 cm) ease in the bust; shown in size 36" (91.5 cm). YARN Blue Sky Fibers Woolstok [100% fine highland wool; 370 yards (338 meters) / 150 grams]: 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) hanks #1302 Gravel Road NEEDLES One pair straight needles, one 24" (60 cm) long or longer circular needle (for Hood), and one pair of double-pointed needles (for Applied I-cord), size US 6 (4 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Stitch markers, separating zipper approximately 22 (22, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28)" [56 (56, 61, 61, 61, 66, 66, 66, 66, 71, 71, 71) cm] long GAUGE 22 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st NOTES If your size gives the number 0 for a particular instruction, skip that instruction and proceed to the next instruction. Unless otherwise specified, raglan decreases should be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped, as follows: For leftslanting edges: [K1, p1] twice, ssk, knit to end; for right-slanting edges: knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice. Increases should also be worked to match the slant of the edge being shaped, as follows: For right-slanting edges: On RS rows, k1, M1R, knit to end on; WS rows, p1, M1PR, purl to end. For left-slanting edges: On RS rows, knit to last st, M1L, k1; on WS rows, p1, M1PL, purl to end.

Instructions

  1. BACK CO 83 (89, 95, 99, 105, 111, 117, 121, 133, 143, 155, 165) sts. Begin 1x1 Rib Flat; work even until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with a WS row. NEXT ROW (RS): Work in rib as established for 6 sts, pm, knit to last 6 sts, pm, work in rib as established to end. Continuing to work in rib on first and last 6 sts, and in St st between markers, work even until piece measures 17 (17, 17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18½, 19)" [43 (43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47, 47, 47, 48.5) cm] from the beginning, ending with a WS row. SHAPE RAGLAN ARMHOLES BO 7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows (removing markers). Decrease 1 st each side every RS row 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 7, 7, 7, 11, 14, 17, 20) times, then every other RS row 12 (12, 11, 12, 11, 11, 12, 13, 9, 7, 5, 3) times, then every RS row 1 (2, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6, 6, 10, 13, 16, 19) time(s)—39 (43, 45, 47, 47, 49, 53, 55, 59, 61, 65, 67) sts remain. Armholes measure 7 (7¼, 7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10, 10, 10½, 11, 11½)" [18 (18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm]. Work 1 WS row even. BO all sts in pattern.

  2. LEFT AND RIGHT FRONTS CO 41 (43, 47, 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts. Begin 1x1 Rib Flat; work even until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with a WS row. LEFT FRONT: NEXT ROW (RS): Work in rib as established for 6 sts, pm, knit to end. RIGHT FRONT: NEXT ROW (RS): Knit to last 6 sts, pm, work in rib as established to end. BOTH FRONTS: Continuing to work in rib on 6 sts at side edge, and in St st on remaining sts, work even until piece measures 17 (17, 17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18½, 19)" [43 (43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47, 47, 47, 48.5) cm] from the beginning, ending at the armhole edge. SHAPE RAGLAN ARMHOLE AND NECK Note: Armhole and neck are shaped at the same time; please read entire section through before beginning. BO 7 sts at armhole edge once (removing marker). Decrease 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 7, 7, 7, 11, 14, 17, 20) times, then every other RS row 12 (12, 11, 12, 11, 11, 12, 13, 9, 7, 5, 3) times, then every RS row 1 (2, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6, 6, 10, 13, 16, 19) time(s). LEFT FRONT: AT THE SAME TIME, when you have completed 35 (37, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 59, 63, 67, 71) rows from the beginning of armhole shaping, shape neck as follows: NEXT ROW (WS): Continuing to work armhole shaping as established, BO 7 (8, 10, 11, 10, 12, 13, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts, work to end. RIGHT FRONT: AT THE SAME TIME, when you have completed 34 (36, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 58, 62, 66, 70) rows from the beginning of armhole shaping, shape neck as follows: NEXT ROW (RS): Continuing to work armhole shaping as established, BO 7 (8, 10, 11, 10, 12, 13, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts, work to end. BOTH FRONTS: Continuing to work armhole shaping as established, decrease 1 st at neck edge every RS row 4 times, then every other RS row 3 times, as follows: On Left Front, work to last 2 sts, k2tog; on Right Front, ssk, work to end—5 sts remain when all shaping is complete. Armhole measures same as for Back. Work 1 WS row even. BO all sts in pattern.

  3. SLEEVES CO 45 (45, 45, 47, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51, 53, 53, 53) sts. Begin 1x1 Rib Flat; work even until piece measures 3" (7.5 cm), ending with a WS row. NEXT ROW (RS): K19 (19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23), pm, work in rib as established for 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 7, 7, 7) sts, pm, knit to end. Work 3 rows even, working sts between markers in rib as established, and remaining sts in St st. SHAPE SLEEVE Increase 1 st each side this row, then every 15 (13, 10, 11, 9, 8, 8, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2) rows 6 (7, 9, 9, 11, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 31, 36) times—59 (61, 65, 67, 71, 75, 79, 87, 95, 105, 117, 127) sts. Work even until piece measures 18 (18, 18, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18½, 18, 18, 17½)" [45.5 (45.5, 45.5, 47, 47, 47, 47, 47, 47, 45.5, 45.5, 44.5) cm] from the beginning, ending with a WS row. SHAPE RAGLAN CAP BO 7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st each side every RS row 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 7, 7, 7, 11, 14, 17, 20) times, then every other RS row 12 (13, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 12, 9, 6, 2, 0) times, then every RS row 1 (0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 8, 10, 15, 22, 25) time(s)—15 (17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) sts remain. Cap measures same as for Back armholes. Work 1 WS row even. BO all sts.

  4. FINISHING Block pieces as desired. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. HOOD With RS facing, using circular needle and beginning at Right Front neck edge, pick up and knit approximately 1 st in each BO st and 3 sts for every 4 rows along diagonal edges, ending with an even number of sts. Begin St st; work even until piece measures 13" (33 cm) from pick-up row. Place marker at center of sts. SHAPE HOOD Decrease 2 sts every RS row 5 times, as follows: Knit to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, knit to end. Purl 1 WS row. Divide sts onto 2 needles and join halves using 3-Needle BO. ZIPPER FACING With RS facing, using circular needle and beginning at lower Right Front edge, pick up and knit 4 sts for every 5 rows around entire neck opening, including along hood edge. Work a 4-st Applied I-cord around entire opening. Sew in zipper.