https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/how-to-make-a-monoggle • Posted by B Z.
I'd class this as intermediate level, I assume in the directions that you know how to sew the basics and that you've crafted before. I recommend you read through this and then gather all the things you think you'll need. It's a very open tutorial, because the whole point of this thing is embellishment. Make it your own. If you have a store-bought belt or strap, use that. It eliminates the sewing. Use coloured or weird camera filters for the eye-piece. Magnifying lenses are rad too, but they will hurt your eye if left on too long. Cover the front and make it an eye patch. Just rock it. Another good home-made goggle how-to is available, <a href="http://www.brassgoggles.co.uk/brassgoggles/?page_id=133">here</a>, at <a href="http://www.brassgoggles.co.uk/brassgoggles/">Brass Goggles (a lighter side of steampunk)</a>. This tutorial is what planted the little seed of the monoggle idea in my head.
I'd class this as intermediate level, I assume in the directions that you know how to sew the basics and that you've crafted before. I recommend you read through this and then gather all the things you think you'll need. It's a very open tutorial, because the whole point of this thing is embellishment. Make it your own. If you have a store-bought belt or strap, use that. It eliminates the sewing. Use coloured or weird camera filters for the eye-piece. Magnifying lenses are rad too, but they will hurt your eye if left on too long. Cover the front and make it an eye patch. Just rock it. Another good home-made goggle how-to is available, <a href="http://www.brassgoggles.co.uk/brassgoggles/?page_id=133">here</a>, at <a href="http://www.brassgoggles.co.uk/brassgoggles/">Brass Goggles (a lighter side of steampunk)</a>. This tutorial is what planted the little seed of the monoggle idea in my head.
You'll need what's seen here. The orange round glass thing is a filter for a camera lens. Filters are most readily available in 40.5mm, 39mm (both rangefinder sizes) and 45mm (35mm camera size). The filter I used is 40.5mm and fit the tube perfectly. Look around for scratched or old filters, you can pick them up for cheap or free. What is "scratched" to a photographer isn't necessarily so scratched you can't use it. Or even see that it is scratched.
Using other goggles, or just common sense to guide you, cut the tube to fit your orbit. Keep cutting new ones and experimenting until you find a shape that works.
You may need to enlarge your eye cup's diameter to properly fit the filter or lens you're using. Cut down the side of the eye cup and Insert another slice of cardboard tube, tape to fit.
Depending on how you shaped the eye cup, you can either cut a slice out of the side (the side by your ear, as opposed to your nose) to accept the strap or add a piece on. I added a piece on. Keep in mind the width of the strap you want to use or make, and always cut about an 1/8th of an inch bigger than your expected dimensions. The papier mâché later will thicken everything.
Cover your piece in papier mâché. Everybody has their own way or papier mâché-ing, if you want, I've got a <a href="http://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/basic_flour_glue">set describing the flour glue I use</a>, it's a pretty adaptable recipe. Dip thin (1/2"-1") strips of newspaper through whatever glue you're using and lay it on the piece, trying to smooth and shape things. Alternate directions for strength. Let dry.
If you want, use spackle to further smooth the eye cup. Then base coat it. I like to base coat before I use the 2-part epoxy putty, I find it sticks better and I can see where I'm putting it.
Using glue of choice (super for me, thanks) and some air-drying clay or putty (I prefer a 2-part epoxy putty), set in your filter, smooth any seams and add dimensional detail to taste. If you're using the sort of materials I'm using, do it in a well-ventilated area. This stuff is nasty.
Cover up all that ugmo grey putty.
Add textural paint effects, wire, electrical scrap, whatever you fancy. Have fun, make it your own. Now is the perfect time to try on the eye cup and figure out where the strap will attach near the bridge of the nose. Mark this spot.
Using the dimensions of the slot you cut all those steps ago, cut out two strips of fabric. They should be the width of that slot <i>plus</i> whatever seam allowance you fancy. Make them long enough to go around your head. For a base measurement, try 30". It is overkill, but you can always cut the excess off. If you have a pre-made strap or belt or whatever lying around, use that. The most time-intensive part of this whole thing for me was getting the strap right. Keep in mind you're going to need to figure out how to attach it to the eye cup. If you're using a pre-made strap, skip to the end of the sewing bit.
There is Mr. Strap. Look at him go.
Turn the strap right side out. For something this long, I found my otherwise worthless knitting needles handy. Finish the end, top stitch, etc. Fancy it up if you desire.
Here you see the end that will attach to the nose bridge piece. It's just fabric folded over, so that I can just thread the line through.
How are you going to adjust the strap? A buckle works, as seen on <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/bzedan/399981632/">this piece</a>. Or, lacking that, a button and a row of buttonholes (or vice versa) works as well. If you used a pre-made strap of some sort, you're probably glad that you got to skip this bit. You still need to figure out how you're going to attach it to the eye cup though.
Using whatever works with your theme (electrical wire, ribbon, ball chain, string), attach a length (about 4" for me, making a 2" length once doubled) to the eye cup at that point you marked earlier. Either thread it through holes in the eye cup itself or through a separate loop that is attached to the cup. I'm leaving this really open, because different things work for different people. Just keep in mind that it's going to be rubbing against the bridge of your nose. A clearer view of how I attached this piece can be seen in the finished images.
Thanks to that handy-dandy loop, you can slide the knot (or whatever) until it's hidden and sew in in securely.
And you're done! Here is the one I made, modelled by my lumpy papier mâché head form.
Fancy finished picture.
And one more.