https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/hanging-chair • Posted by Laurence King
ladies & Gentlemen studio Chairs must perform two fundamental functions – support and comfort – and these functions are addressed in varying ratios by different designers. The Ovis Macramé Hanging Chair’s frame and sling construction provides a fresh way of addressing these opposing functions. Hard machined materials (metal and wood) are paired with soft textural ones (cotton ropes) to create a rigid structural frame that is intersected by a flowing woven sling. The result is a balance that feels at once supportive and comfortable.
ladies & Gentlemen studio Chairs must perform two fundamental functions – support and comfort – and these functions are addressed in varying ratios by different designers. The Ovis Macramé Hanging Chair’s frame and sling construction provides a fresh way of addressing these opposing functions. Hard machined materials (metal and wood) are paired with soft textural ones (cotton ropes) to create a rigid structural frame that is intersected by a flowing woven sling. The result is a balance that feels at once supportive and comfortable.
Cut the wooden dowels to the following sizes: Two x 737mm (parts A and B) One x 610mm (part C) Cut the copper tubes to the following size: Two x 1140mm (part D) Drill holes in the A, B and C dowels as shown, making sure the holes are perfectly in line and parallel.
Slide the copper tubes (parts D) into the 25mm holes on each side of the 51mm dowels (parts A and B). At the centre of where the 51mm dowels (parts A and B) and copper tubes (parts D) intersect, secure the frame with the brass screws (predrill the holes using a 3mm bit prior to screwing in). Temporarily hang the top of the chair frame against a wall to keep the chair stable during the macramé process (see Fig. 1). Part A should be at the top.
Fold one of the 6mm twist cords in the centre and wrap it around the top of part A to make a starting knot. Finish up with an overhand knot (see Fig. 2). Repeat this 16 times across the top. Make bundles with each separate rope length using tape so that they are easier to manage when macraméing, and to prevent the rope from fraying.
A) Begin the first row by making alternating square knots. Take the first and fourth strands and make a square knot around the second and third strands (see Fig. 3). Then take the fifth and eighth strands, wrap them around the sixth and seventh strands, and continue this pattern until the end of row. B) Skip the first two strands and start a square knot at the third strand instead. Tie the knot at about 50mm below the first row. Repeat making square knots across the row. Repeat Steps A and B, alternating the rows. Continue until the sling reaches 115cm long.
Once the sling reaches the ideal length of 115cm, take the first two ropes and tie them together with an overhand knot. Repeat this with every two ropes until all are tied. Take each two-rope bundle and thread the ends through the 11mm holes on the bottom dowel (part B). Tie another knot as close and tight to the dowel as possible and repeat for each two-rope bundle. Cut each rope to your preferred tassel length, and untwist the rope to make loose tassels. You can wet and press the rope with an iron to straighten out any kinks.
Take the 5m and 6m lengths of 12mm-wide rope and find the centre of each by folding them in half and taping the two sides together. Measure 15cm down from the centre fold and knot both rope sides together to make a loop for the top of the chair to hang from. Secure the threaded hook into a ceiling beam (make sure the beam can hold the load), then hang the desired length of rope. Slide the brass tube over the knot, then connect the rope to the top loop of the chair with the brass marine snap hook. For each side of the chair pair one 5m and one 6m section at each end of the knot and thread them together through the hole on each side of part C. Keep the rope straight and not twisted. Measure from the bottom of the upper knot and mark 46cm down on all four ropes. On each side, take the two ropes and tie a knot at that 46cm mark and below part C. The dowel will rest on these knots. Note: before fully tightening the knots, re-measure the ropes and check that both sides are even and that the dowel is level. Take the short ropes and make a sack or bag knot around part A on each side of the sling, inside the copper tubing. Ensure that the criss-cross part of the knot faces the bottom side of the frame. Repeat the process with the long ropes around part B.
Below the sack knots and the frame, use the remaining rope length to tie an overhand knot close and tight to the dowel to keep it secure. Cut the extra rope to your ideal length and untwist it to make tassels. You can wet and press the rope with an iron to straighten out any kinks. Take a seat, relax and enjoy!