https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/half-finger-glove • Posted by Storey Publishing
This last glove project is a bit of a tour de force, rounding out the mitten and glove techniques presented so far. It is knit from the fingers down. Each finger, including the thumb, is made separately with a different color. The fingers are then joined together to make the hand. We haven’t tried a thumb gusset worked from the thumb down to the cuff, so this is a chance for you to see that it’s a surprisingly simple construction. Finally, the bottom of the glove is embellished with a few stripes, giving you a chance to practice camouflaging the jog, and a neat contrast-color hem. I recommend working the fingers on double-points (either conventionally or as I-cord). The hand is most easily worked on two circulars; the beauty of this is that you can try on the glove at any point to check the fit or just to admire it as it progresses. For Project Shown?You Need Yarn amount (for one glove): 4 yds/3.7 m Douglas Fir (6ns); 3 yds/2.7 m Natural (0ns); 6 yds/ 5.5 m Turquoise (22ns); 12 yds/11 m Firefly (54ns); 5 yds/4.6 m Sunshine (40ns); 32 yds/29 m Bittersweet (630) Gauge: 24 stitches = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch Needle Size: US 4 (3.5 mm). Match the project’s gauge if you want finished measurements to match pattern instructions. Needle Types: For the fingers and thumb, a set of four double-pointed needles at least 4" (10 cm) long (Note: You can make the fingers any way you like — on a set of double points, as I-cord, on two circular needles, or Magic Loop — but for transferring them to the circular needles prior to joining them to the hand, double-pointed needles are by far the easiest tools.) For the hand, two circulars 16" (40 cm) or longer (Note: You could use one long circular needle for Magic Loop, but two circular needles give you more flexibility if you get disoriented ?or need to correct a mistake.) Other Supplies: About 64" (163 cm) crochet cotton cut into 8" (20.5 cm) lengths to use as stitch holders, yarn needle, stitch markers Finished Size: 7?3?4 ?" (19.5 cm) circumference at knuckles × 5?1?2 " (14 cm) from base of fingers to cuff New Techniques Used Fingers down to cuff, Partial fingers and thumb, Joining fingers to form hand, Joining thumb and starting gusset, Symmetrical gusset decreases, Jogless stripes, Hem While the instructions call for different colors for all five fingers and the hand (to make it clear which one you’re working with in the instructions), you can of course simplify things by making the whole glove in one color.
This last glove project is a bit of a tour de force, rounding out the mitten and glove techniques presented so far. It is knit from the fingers down. Each finger, including the thumb, is made separately with a different color. The fingers are then joined together to make the hand. We haven’t tried a thumb gusset worked from the thumb down to the cuff, so this is a chance for you to see that it’s a surprisingly simple construction. Finally, the bottom of the glove is embellished with a few stripes, giving you a chance to practice camouflaging the jog, and a neat contrast-color hem. I recommend working the fingers on double-points (either conventionally or as I-cord). The hand is most easily worked on two circulars; the beauty of this is that you can try on the glove at any point to check the fit or just to admire it as it progresses. For Project Shown?You Need Yarn amount (for one glove): 4 yds/3.7 m Douglas Fir (6ns); 3 yds/2.7 m Natural (0ns); 6 yds/ 5.5 m Turquoise (22ns); 12 yds/11 m Firefly (54ns); 5 yds/4.6 m Sunshine (40ns); 32 yds/29 m Bittersweet (630) Gauge: 24 stitches = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch Needle Size: US 4 (3.5 mm). Match the project’s gauge if you want finished measurements to match pattern instructions. Needle Types: For the fingers and thumb, a set of four double-pointed needles at least 4" (10 cm) long (Note: You can make the fingers any way you like — on a set of double points, as I-cord, on two circular needles, or Magic Loop — but for transferring them to the circular needles prior to joining them to the hand, double-pointed needles are by far the easiest tools.) For the hand, two circulars 16" (40 cm) or longer (Note: You could use one long circular needle for Magic Loop, but two circular needles give you more flexibility if you get disoriented ?or need to correct a mistake.) Other Supplies: About 64" (163 cm) crochet cotton cut into 8" (20.5 cm) lengths to use as stitch holders, yarn needle, stitch markers Finished Size: 7?3?4 ?" (19.5 cm) circumference at knuckles × 5?1?2 " (14 cm) from base of fingers to cuff New Techniques Used Fingers down to cuff, Partial fingers and thumb, Joining fingers to form hand, Joining thumb and starting gusset, Symmetrical gusset decreases, Jogless stripes, Hem While the instructions call for different colors for all five fingers and the hand (to make it clear which one you’re working with in the instructions), you can of course simplify things by making the whole glove in one color.
"Excerpted from Circular Knitting Workshop by (c) Margaret Radcliffe, photography by (c) John Polak, used with permission from Storey Publishing."
Working the Thumb - Using Douglas Fir, cast on 18 stitches, leaving a 4–6" (10–15 cm) tail to weave in later; work circularly for 10 rounds. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 8" (20 cm). Place the stitches on a piece of crochet cotton. Weave in the cast-on tail on the inside of the thumb and trim off the excess. You could wait until later to weave in this end, but there will be many tails of yarn hanging down, so it is less confusing to get rid of the cast-on tails as you finish each finger, and it’s actually easier to do it before they are attached to the hand.
Working the Little Finger - Using Natural, cast on 14 stitches leaving a 4–6" (10–15 cm) tail to weave in later. - Work circularly for 10 rounds. - Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about 8" (20.5 cm). - Place the stitches on another length of crochet cotton. - Weave in the cast-on tail on the inside of the finger, and trim.
Working the Index Finger - Using Turquoise, cast on 16 stitches, leaving a 4–6" (10–15 cm) tail to weave in later. - Work circularly for 12 rounds. - Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about 8" (20.5 cm). - Place the last 2 stitches of the round on a piece of crochet cotton. Divide the remaining stitches between two double-pointed needles, with 7 stitches on each. (Half are for the back of the glove and half for the palm.) A
- Weave in the cast-on tail on the inside of the finger, and trim. - Slip the 7 stitches from one double-point onto one circular needle and the other 7 onto the other circular needle B. One of these circular needles will eventually hold all the stitches for the back of the hand and the other will hold all the stitches for the palm.
Working the Middle Finger - Using Firefly, cast on and work as for index finger until you are ready to remove the stitches from the needle. - Place the last 2 stitches of the round on another piece of crochet cotton. - Place the next 6 stitches on one double-pointed needle. - Place the next 2 stitches on another piece of crochet cotton. - Place the last 6 stitches onto a second double-pointed needle. - Like the index finger, the stitches on one needle are for the back of the glove and those on the other needle are for the palm. Hold the circular needles in one hand so that the tail attached to the index finger is toward the needle points you’ll be using. Hold the double points in the other hand so that the tail attached to the middle finger is toward the needle points you’ll be using. Slip the stitches from the front double point onto the front circular needle, then slip the stitches from the back double point to the back circular needle. When you’re done, the two fingers should be on the circular needles with the two dangling tails next to each other C.
Working the Ring Finger - Using Sunshine, cast on and work as for index finger until you are ready to remove the stitches from the needle. - Place the last 2 stitches of the round on another piece of crochet cotton. - Arrange the remaining stitches so that 7 are on one double-pointed needle and 7 are on another. - Hold the circular needles in one hand with the Firefly (green) middle finger closest to the needle points you plan to use. Hold the double points in the other hand with the tail closest to the needle points you plan to use. Slip the stitches to the front and back circular needles just as you did for the middle finger. When you’re done, the ring finger’s tail should be next to the middle finger D. (40 stitches, 20 on each needle)
Starting the Hand - Using Bittersweet and beginning at the Sunshine (yellow) ring finger, knit 3 rounds, stopping 1 stitch before the end of the third round. Place the last stitch of the round and the first stitch of the next round on a piece of crochet cotton E. (38 stitches, 19 on each needle)
Joining the Little Finger - Setup: Slip a double-pointed needle through the first 6 stitches of the little finger; do this without removing the crochet cotton. Continuing to use Bittersweet and starting at the side of the little finger where the tail is attached, knit across these 6 stitches F.
- Leave the last 2 stitches of the little finger on the crochet cotton and slip the tip of the other circular needle through the next 6 stitches of the little finger G. The beginning of round is now at the outer edge of the little finger. (50 stitches, 25 on each needle)
- Round 1: Still using Bittersweet, knit around. - Round 2 (decrease round): Decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced. Accomplish this by working *K2tog, K10, K2tog, K11; repeat from * once. (46 stitches, 23 on each needle) - Rounds 3–11: Knit around. - This is an excellent point to stop and admire your handiwork and to make sure the glove is the correct length before adding the thumb H. If necessary, unravel a few rounds or add a few rounds until the hand is exactly the right length to the thumb.
Joining the Thumb - On the next round, knit until 2 stitches remain at the end of the first needle. You are at the outer edge of the index finger. Remove the last 2 stitches from this needle and the first 2 from the other needle and place them on a piece of crochet cotton I.
- Slip a double-pointed needle through the first 7 stitches of the thumb. (You should be able to do this without removing the crochet cotton.) Place a marker on the front circular needle. Beginning at the side of the thumb where the tail is attached, use Bittersweet and the front circular needle to knit across the 7 thumb stitches J.
- Place a marker on the back circular needle. Leave the last 4 stitches of thumb on the crochet cotton and slip the other circular needle into the next 7 stitches K.
Working the Gusset - The beginning/end of round is now at the outer edge of the thumb. There are 56 stitches, 28 on each needle, which is too big to fit the wrist, so the gusset tapers the thumb until you get back down to 46 stitches for the hand. - Still using Bittersweet, knit 1 round. - Decrease Round: Knit until 2 stitches remain before the marker, K2tog, slip marker, knit around to the second marker (near the end of the other needle), slip marker, ssk, knit to end of round. Note that the K2tog decrease on one side of the gusset and the ssk decrease on the other side are mirror images of each other. - Continue working in stockinette with Bittersweet, working the Decrease Round every fourth round until 46 stitches remain.
Working the Stripes - Rounds 1–5: Using Bittersweet, knit around. Glove should measure about 4": (10 cm) from base of little finger to needle. As you work the stripes below, try out the methods for Stripes Without the Stair Step, discussed on pages 97–98. - Rounds 6 and 7: Using Firefly, knit around. - Round 8: Using Turquoise, knit around. - Rounds 9 and 10: Using Sunshine, knit around. - Rounds 11–15: Using Bittersweet, knit around. - Round 16: Using Firefly, knit around.
Creating the Hem - Before you begin the hem, you may want to review Hems (pages 66–67). - Round 1: Using Firefly, purl around. - Rounds 2–8: Knit around. - Cut yarn leaving a tail 1 yard (1 meter) long. Before joining the hem to the inside, weave in any ends from the last few stripes that will be encased in the hem. Use duplicate stitch on the purl side to disguise the jog (see Stripes Without the Stair Step, pages 97–98). Using a yarn needle, sew or weave the live stitches to the inside of the glove to finish the hem.
Finishing - Weave in any remaining tails near the cuff, using duplicate stitch on the inside at the beginning/end of round to disguise the jog. - Close up the holes at the base of the thumb and fingers as follows: At the base of each finger, there are 2 stitches on crochet cotton on each side of the opening. Slip each of these pairs of stitches onto -separate double-pointed needles and remove the crochet cotton. (You can simply pull on it and it will come out.) There should be a tail of yarn connected to at least one of the sets of stitches on the needles. Using this tail, work Kitchener stitch (pages 70–74) to join the two sets of stitches, then close up any holes at either side before weaving in the tail on the wrong side. L - There are 4 stitches set aside on crochet cotton at the base of the thumb and the hand opposite it. Join them together exactly as you did for the fingers. - Check for any remaining tails and weave them in.