https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/gypsy-punk-revolte-capri-pants • Posted by So
After my ruffle skirt, this is the next piece of my minicollection (for me) inspired by ancient stuff like wallpapers and lampshades, Gogol Bordello, Devotchka, The Dresden Dolls... these trousers are made from olive cord fabric, some leftovers of the black and silver jacquard from my ruffle skirt (actually, i bought so much of it, that i upholstered my bed with it) they end above my knee in a fringe trim. i inserted some side panels and added pockets and some... wings? at the back out of jacquard. at the top of the side panels i added some tiny tassels. i think for all the stuff needed a paid about 25 euro. i think the system has some upload issues at the moment, some pics will follow the next days!!
After my ruffle skirt, this is the next piece of my minicollection (for me) inspired by ancient stuff like wallpapers and lampshades, Gogol Bordello, Devotchka, The Dresden Dolls... these trousers are made from olive cord fabric, some leftovers of the black and silver jacquard from my ruffle skirt (actually, i bought so much of it, that i upholstered my bed with it) they end above my knee in a fringe trim. i inserted some side panels and added pockets and some... wings? at the back out of jacquard. at the top of the side panels i added some tiny tassels. i think for all the stuff needed a paid about 25 euro. i think the system has some upload issues at the moment, some pics will follow the next days!!
Grab your pattern for trousers. Or take the pattern from some trousers you own. Change the pattern as you wish, maybe you want it shorter or longer or wider, whatever... draw in the inserted panels and cut them out.
Take the back piece and draw the curve for your wing. make a copy of that wing part. if you like you can add some cm to the centre back so the wing pieces will overlap a bit. now divide the curve by four and mark lines from these measurements to the other side of the piece. The wing should be a bit bigger at the curved edge, so you have to add some width to it. cut the lines from curve and open them a bit (approx. 0.5cm).
now you can cut your pieces! you will need *2 front pieces *2 back pieces *2 front panels *4 wings (2 for each side) *2 front yoke left *2 front yoke right *2 back yoke (on fold) *1 fly shield (underlap) for the zipper *2 pockets *bias tape out of lining *2 front pieces out of lining, cut them until above your knee, using the selvage as hem (optional) one or even both parts of each yoke piece needs some interfacing, but if you use cord fabric be careful with ironing, cord tends to become shiny and squashed flat. i suggest to iron on a strip of interfacing to the edges of the front part and panels where it will be inserted and where the side seam will be.
if you want a nice look even on the inside use an overlock to finish the edges or use piping. If you want to add lining for the front parts, you don´t have to finish the front parts out of cord fabric yet.
now, sew the front panels to the front piece. it can be a bit tricky with that corner... you can topstitch around after inserting to hide a tiny sewing mystake ;) pin the lining to the back of the front pieces and finish the edges with an overlock or piping, at the top edge just baste.
fold in the seam allowance of your pockets and sew them to the back pieces.
close the inner seams of each leg.
and now close the seat seam. at the front, just baste the section where the zipper will be inserted later.
sew the wings right sides facing, turn inside out and iron the edge. baste the wings to the back parts of your trousers. now you can close the outer seams with the wings sandwiched between the layers of front and back parts.
hem the legs: you can leave them just finished or even raw edged or you tuck in and turn. i finished the lower edge with bias tape and tacked the hem by hand between the layers.
measure the circumfence of your hem. cut a piece of your fringe trim as long as that measurement PLUS approx 1cm seam allowance. sew the fringe trim to a circle and pin it to the lower edge. sew on the trim.
sew the side seams of your yoke pieces so you have two whole yokes. Now sew them together right sides facing. take some bias tape and finish the lower edge of the inner yoke (like the hem).
Finish the fly shield and insert your zipper. For inserting a zipper, pull out the basting at the front. take the left side (when you look from above) and push the edge approx. 0.5cm to the middle and iron it.sew the right band of the zipper to the right side of the fly shield (the finished side). now place the shield with the zipper under the front underlap you just pushed a bit outwards and topstitch. pin the other band of the zipper to the overlap and sew on the band (only on the overlap). turn over and topstitch from the right side without sewing on the fly shield!
now sew the lower edge of the outer yoke to the upper edge of your trousers (right sides facing). Flip it up.
flip over the inner yoke so the right sides of the yokes are facing and sew the edges at the zipper. turn back and topstitch at the lower edge of the yoke to tack the inner yoke and seam allowances.
sew on the hook closure and the tassels.