https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/crocheted-alligator-scarf • Posted by Kathy S.
ALLIGATOR SCARF *J hook *Worsted weight yarn - 6 oz. (soft worsted wt. best recommended, such as Caron Simply Soft) *Scarf measures approximately 6-1/2” wide by 56” long SPECIAL STITCHES: *Beginning 6 treble crochet (tr) popcorn stitch (pc): Ch 4 (counts as first tr), work 5 more tr in designated stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook in the first tr (top of ch 4), pull dropped loop through this first tr. *6 tr popcorn stitch: Work 6 tr in designated stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook in first tr and pull dropped loop through this first stitch. ROW 1: This row is right side of work and the beg of the head. Ch 9, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (8 sc) ROW 2: Work even on 8 sc. ROW 3: Work a beginning 6 tr pc stitch in 1st sc (first nostril made), 1 sc in next 7 sc, work another beginning pc stitch in the same st as last sc made. (second nostril made). Cut yarn, fasten off. ROW 4: With right side still facing, attach yarn with a sl st in the 4th tr of the first pc stitch, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 1 sc in the 4th tr of 2nd pc st, ch 1, turn. Weave in all loose ends to back of work. (8 sc) ROW 5-6: Work even on 8 sc. ROW 7: Work 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in each sc across, working 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sc) ROWS 8-14: Work even on 10 sc. ROW 15: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in each sc across, working 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc) ROWS 16-20: Work even on 12 sc. ROW 21: 1 sc in 1st sc, sl st in next sc, ch 7, sl st in same st ( beg of 1st eye), 1 sc in next 8 sc, sl st in next sc, ch 7 sl st in same st ( beg of 2nd eye), sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. Be sure to keep eyes pushed to right side as you work. ROW 22: 1 sc in each sc and in each ch across. Be sure NOT to work into the sl sts that were made before and after each ch 7 of the eyes, ch 1 turn. (24 sc) ROW 23: *(Dec over next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc)* 3 times, 1 sc in next 7 sc, rep between stars twice, dec over last 2 sc. (18 sts) ROW 24: Dec over 1st 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across, working dec over last 2 sts. (16 sts) ROW 25: Rep row 24. (14 sts) ROWS 26-27: Work even in sc on 14 sts. ROW 28: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each rem sc, working 2 sc in last sc. (17 sc) ROW 29: Work even on 17 sc. This is the end of the head portion of the body and begins the main body. Do not fasten off, turn. ROW 30: Ch 3 loosely (counts as 1st tr on each row), 1 tr in next sc, *6 tr pc in next sc, 1 tr in next 2 sc, rep from* across, ch 1, turn. (12 tr, 5 pc stitches) ROW 31: 1 sc in 1st 2 tr, *1 sc in next pc stitch, 1 sc in next 2 tr* rep from* across. (17 sc) ROWS 32-33: Work even on 17 sc. ROW 34: Rep row 30. ROWS 35-37: Rep rows 31-33. ROWS 38-93: Work rows 30-33 14 times more. ROW 94: Rep row 30. ROW 95: Rep row 31. This ends the main body and begins the tail. Do not fasten off, ch 1, turn. TAIL NOTE: Entire tail is worked in sc and sc decreases. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. ROW 1: Dec over 1st 2 sc, work 1 sc in each rem sc, working dec over last 2 sc. (15 sts) ROWS 2-3: Work even on 15 sts. ROW 4: Rep row 1. (13 sts) ROWS 5-8: Work even on 13 sts. ROW 9: Rep row 1. (11 sts) ROWS 10-14: Work even on 11 sts. ROW 15: Rep row 1. ( 9 sts) ROWS 16-21: Work even on 9 sts. ROW 22: Rep row 1. (7 sts) ROWS 23-27: Work even on 7 sts. ROW 28: Rep row 1. (5 sts) ROWS 29-31: Work even on 5 sts. ROW 32: Rep row 1. (3 sts) ROWS 33-35: Work even on 3 sts. ROW 36: Dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in last st. (2 sts) ROW 37: Work even on 2 sts. ROW 38: Dec over rem 2 sts, fasten off. TIP: You’ll undoubtedly notice that the holes of each eye do not permanently remain open because the yarn caves in around the holes causing them to close. However, there is a remedy for this. You will need two 1/2” bone rings and a size F hook. If you are not using a soft worsted yarn, try to match a color of soft worsted, embroidery floss, or 3 ply yarn to the color you are using. This is because standard yarn may be too thick. Now that this is established, and with your F hook, work in sc over entire bone ring until it is full. Fasten off neatly and leave a strand for sewing. Next place the covered bone ring over the first eye hole. Slightly stretch out the eye hole on the alligator (don’t over stretch!) to place the covered bone ring into position. Then with threaded yarn needle, begin by picking up one small single loop of yarn on the alligator eye hole itself, then 1 stitch in the BACK LOOP only of 1 sc on the bone ring. Continue this step all around until covered bone ring is stitched into place. Do the same for the second eye. Now you will notice that the holes in the center of each bone ring have become the new eye holes for Mr. Alligator, now giving him that “caffeine look”all the time!
ALLIGATOR SCARF *J hook *Worsted weight yarn - 6 oz. (soft worsted wt. best recommended, such as Caron Simply Soft) *Scarf measures approximately 6-1/2” wide by 56” long SPECIAL STITCHES: *Beginning 6 treble crochet (tr) popcorn stitch (pc): Ch 4 (counts as first tr), work 5 more tr in designated stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook in the first tr (top of ch 4), pull dropped loop through this first tr. *6 tr popcorn stitch: Work 6 tr in designated stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook in first tr and pull dropped loop through this first stitch. ROW 1: This row is right side of work and the beg of the head. Ch 9, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (8 sc) ROW 2: Work even on 8 sc. ROW 3: Work a beginning 6 tr pc stitch in 1st sc (first nostril made), 1 sc in next 7 sc, work another beginning pc stitch in the same st as last sc made. (second nostril made). Cut yarn, fasten off. ROW 4: With right side still facing, attach yarn with a sl st in the 4th tr of the first pc stitch, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 1 sc in the 4th tr of 2nd pc st, ch 1, turn. Weave in all loose ends to back of work. (8 sc) ROW 5-6: Work even on 8 sc. ROW 7: Work 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in each sc across, working 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (10 sc) ROWS 8-14: Work even on 10 sc. ROW 15: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in each sc across, working 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc) ROWS 16-20: Work even on 12 sc. ROW 21: 1 sc in 1st sc, sl st in next sc, ch 7, sl st in same st ( beg of 1st eye), 1 sc in next 8 sc, sl st in next sc, ch 7 sl st in same st ( beg of 2nd eye), sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. Be sure to keep eyes pushed to right side as you work. ROW 22: 1 sc in each sc and in each ch across. Be sure NOT to work into the sl sts that were made before and after each ch 7 of the eyes, ch 1 turn. (24 sc) ROW 23: *(Dec over next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc)* 3 times, 1 sc in next 7 sc, rep between stars twice, dec over last 2 sc. (18 sts) ROW 24: Dec over 1st 2 sts, 1 sc in each st across, working dec over last 2 sts. (16 sts) ROW 25: Rep row 24. (14 sts) ROWS 26-27: Work even in sc on 14 sts. ROW 28: 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each rem sc, working 2 sc in last sc. (17 sc) ROW 29: Work even on 17 sc. This is the end of the head portion of the body and begins the main body. Do not fasten off, turn. ROW 30: Ch 3 loosely (counts as 1st tr on each row), 1 tr in next sc, *6 tr pc in next sc, 1 tr in next 2 sc, rep from* across, ch 1, turn. (12 tr, 5 pc stitches) ROW 31: 1 sc in 1st 2 tr, *1 sc in next pc stitch, 1 sc in next 2 tr* rep from* across. (17 sc) ROWS 32-33: Work even on 17 sc. ROW 34: Rep row 30. ROWS 35-37: Rep rows 31-33. ROWS 38-93: Work rows 30-33 14 times more. ROW 94: Rep row 30. ROW 95: Rep row 31. This ends the main body and begins the tail. Do not fasten off, ch 1, turn. TAIL NOTE: Entire tail is worked in sc and sc decreases. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. ROW 1: Dec over 1st 2 sc, work 1 sc in each rem sc, working dec over last 2 sc. (15 sts) ROWS 2-3: Work even on 15 sts. ROW 4: Rep row 1. (13 sts) ROWS 5-8: Work even on 13 sts. ROW 9: Rep row 1. (11 sts) ROWS 10-14: Work even on 11 sts. ROW 15: Rep row 1. ( 9 sts) ROWS 16-21: Work even on 9 sts. ROW 22: Rep row 1. (7 sts) ROWS 23-27: Work even on 7 sts. ROW 28: Rep row 1. (5 sts) ROWS 29-31: Work even on 5 sts. ROW 32: Rep row 1. (3 sts) ROWS 33-35: Work even on 3 sts. ROW 36: Dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in last st. (2 sts) ROW 37: Work even on 2 sts. ROW 38: Dec over rem 2 sts, fasten off. TIP: You’ll undoubtedly notice that the holes of each eye do not permanently remain open because the yarn caves in around the holes causing them to close. However, there is a remedy for this. You will need two 1/2” bone rings and a size F hook. If you are not using a soft worsted yarn, try to match a color of soft worsted, embroidery floss, or 3 ply yarn to the color you are using. This is because standard yarn may be too thick. Now that this is established, and with your F hook, work in sc over entire bone ring until it is full. Fasten off neatly and leave a strand for sewing. Next place the covered bone ring over the first eye hole. Slightly stretch out the eye hole on the alligator (don’t over stretch!) to place the covered bone ring into position. Then with threaded yarn needle, begin by picking up one small single loop of yarn on the alligator eye hole itself, then 1 stitch in the BACK LOOP only of 1 sc on the bone ring. Continue this step all around until covered bone ring is stitched into place. Do the same for the second eye. Now you will notice that the holes in the center of each bone ring have become the new eye holes for Mr. Alligator, now giving him that “caffeine look”all the time!
Just a sample of how the scarf looks around the neck. However,you can arrange it various ways, such as displaying the lovely long tail section down your back so others can see it from behind, because it is about 56" long when you finish.
After you sew the bone rings in the eyes, it will keep a permenant "caffine" look!
He he is at full length ahead!