https://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/cosplay-applique-overlay-fun-to-say • Posted by EstherC
So this seems like a very complicated cosplay - I simplified it a little The hard part is getting the Pattern of design right and the part that requires skill is putting them together and making it pretty while not spoiling the whole project. Traditional applique is sewn down then carefully trimmed with specially shaped (expensive) scissors and it is still possible to cut the costume by accident. This method is Faster and has less risks of messing up your project. *(I hope they don't mind I included that photo that was sent to me by the person who I made this costume for.)
So this seems like a very complicated cosplay - I simplified it a little The hard part is getting the Pattern of design right and the part that requires skill is putting them together and making it pretty while not spoiling the whole project. Traditional applique is sewn down then carefully trimmed with specially shaped (expensive) scissors and it is still possible to cut the costume by accident. This method is Faster and has less risks of messing up your project. *(I hope they don't mind I included that photo that was sent to me by the person who I made this costume for.)
*On paper I drew out all the areas of applique - I transferred that to the back of the silver fabric *(with wonder under -an iron on adhesive) I then cut out the parts removed the paper and placed them on some of the Fabric The costume was made out of and heated them.
I then used a tight, wide zigzag stitch on all the parts of the design that were not the Edge *(the edge I leave unsewn as I stitch it to the costume later on.)
as you take tight curves, go slow, and ever 3 or 4 stitches put the needle down to the outside of the curve, lift the foot privet a little so you follow the curve, repeat. That way you can sew a dot as small as a Dime (I did!)
After the Inner parts of the Applique are sewn we need to trim away all the extra edge - we wait to do this so that they are nice and neat when we sew them down. cutting ahead of time we end up with frayed edges that will leave random threads sticking out we'd have to go back to trim and that's what we are trying to avoid.
Tips on cutting While they make special applique snips- that are expensive I did all this with Dollar store cheapies. 1 keep them clean don't get tape gunk and sticky stuff on them and 2 a sharpener can do wonders on cheap cutters.
Lots of careful cutting - you don't want to rush this at all.
Ok, if your worried the fabric will fray or shift you can instead of leaving it unsewn and trimming it off, sew the edges then carfully fold it under and Iron it in place, pin it or even use some sort of heat able adhesive like wonder under or heat and bond. --- You may end up doing another line over the first as you sew this on if so, Go slow missing the st line will look sloppy... Tip there is when going around an out side curve *Shown* you'll need to cut little v shaped notches out of the edge but not all the way to where your going to sew. *this allows it to fold better. On inside curves a just a line / cut again not all the way to where your going to sew Like 1/8th an inch away. Will help it fold easier.
Showing a folded over edge on the back side.
I placed the pieces before I finished the tunic but after I did the seams I knew the designs went over (top of hood, shoulders) I pinned them in place to make sure all of them were lined up correctly... Some designs will need to be placed before you assemble and finish you costume others after. If a garment is finished you may want to consider fabric glue or carefully hand sewing your designs on - probably with pre finished edges. As in Step 7&8
As mine had different directions I double checked that I had them facing in the right directions. Before you sew any of them on you can re draw any if they look wrong. This is the time to fix any design flaws.
Attaching the designs... Now I had a nice thick finished folded over edge to work with in a heavy material... If you are working with a lighter material or are not a Cocky person like me you can glue them in place with Wonderunder/heat and bond BUT if your working with Really thin fabric and you have a couple layers of that it gets crunchy.... Tip for passing over thick seams, make sure it lays smooth as possible in the right direction (ie both forward or both back on both sides as you probably pass it two times) As you near the seam your foot will want to tip up let it, your machine may have a screw that adjusts the pressure of the foot down if so you can open it a little and it will move more freely, if not go slowly allow the foot to lift, may try turning it by hand, once you ON the seam press the toe IE front of the foot down and keep turning the machine by hand your "walking over it" as you pass it he toe will dip, keep walking it till you back to flat material... you may adjust you machine back to nor and start sewing at your normal speed.
So, my suggestion is to try some lighter weight glue one those sorts of projects and lots of pins on heavy ones. *I use Elmers childrens glue sticks alot as it works but washes out. There is also a Product called Fray and stay that is basically a super glue that holds the egdes of fabric together... works REALLY well. but may discolor the fabric a little - so I suggest testing it before you plan to use it but it may make doing Applique in fabrics most people think are impossible EASY, just cut it out Iron the parts together paint the edges carefully with fray and stay let dry and sew over.
Now with the decorations simplified this is not so scary a project.
Now for a little magic! I took apart a pair "Neon light up glasses" and put the battery pack in a pocket at the hip and ran the cord to another pocket in the sleeve so the wearer could coil this around his hand and light it up to give him the effect of the magic commonly pictured with this character.